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 ADVANCED
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprentice, The S 
Autumns Child  T,TR 
Birthday Girl  T 
Cobblestoned T,TR 
Curt's Crack T,TR 
Great Train Robbery, The T 
Headstone T,TR 
Manhattan Limited TR 
Margies Curves - Left  T,TR 
Margies Curves - Right T,TR 
Moby Neil T,TR 
Pebbles and Bam Bam T,TR 
Please Don't Pop S 
Russell's Ruin T,TR 
Silver Streak TR 
Snap Crackle Plop S 

Main Wall  


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Location: 40.5444, -76.5294 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 894
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: joeforte on Jan 19, 2012
Forecast:
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Toprope face climb on the main wall circa 2000 5.9...

Description 

The largest and most accessible wall at Boxcar Rocks. Climbs are on the south facing (sunny) side of the wall. The routes run around 45-50 feet tall.

Most or all of the Main Wall now has bolts for anchors just below the top of the wall. In the past they were directly on the top, and subject to much vandalism. These bolts can be reached most safely by lead climbing an easier route.

Alternately you can scramble up blocks on the back/north side of the wall. You'll still have to free climb easy class 5 rock to reach the top and set anchors from the back. We sent our anchor setter up wearing his climbing shoes, let him clip in to an anchor bolt for safety, then let him haul up the heavy gear and rope on a cord.

Routes from left to right:

Just right of the Turtle Head:
  • Moby Neil 5.6 G
  • Locomotive Breath 5.10c TR
  • Moby Direct 5.7 TR

  • Russel's Ruin 5.5 G
  • Cobblestoned 5.11d TR

  • Bam Bam 5.10a TR: the wall immediately left of Pebbles crack. I think I noticed some bolts there.

  • Pebbles 5.6 G: the almost-vertical crack. It goes up 3/4ths of the way up the wall, shifts slightly right at the horizontal, then resumes verticality to the top.

  • Curt's Crack 5.7 G
  • Snap Crackle Plop 5.10a (bolts)
  • The Apprentice 5.9 (5 bolts)
  • Autumn's Child 5.10a G

Margie's curves: look for the only Y-shaped crack on the main wall. The area between the arms of the Y is the Headstone.
  • Margie's Curves Left 5.7 G
  • Headstone TR 5.9
  • Margie's Curves Right rating?

  • Vertigo 5.9 R
  • Retro Vertigo 5.10a R
  • Birthday Girl 5.7 G (2 bolts)
  • Kinesiology 5.6 G

This list covers most but not all climbs we saw there in winter 2012. More face lines are bolted now than I have listed here. The obvious crack climbs are all named in this list, and graded 5.5 to 5.7 G. The farthest left crack was wider than others, and 4" or wider SLCDs might work best there. Most others look doable with standard 3" and smaller gear, unless we missed some surprises higher up.

Getting There 

Hike 5 or 10 minutes east of the parking lot to reach the Main Wall.

From the lot, walk east past the gates until you reach a burn site - if you're attentive you might see a small wood sign saying "Boxcar Rd" on the left. Continue waling and take the first real trail on the right (southward). This takes you to the back side of the rocks near the "turtles head" (Moby Neil end) on the Main Wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.9 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Main Wall
Snap Crackle Plop.

Snap Crackle Plop 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b  PA : South Central PA : ... : Main Wall
Climb a bouldery right facing flake to a bolt and a rest. Delicately climb the face above past 2 more bolts to a horizontal. Clip a 4th bolt and pull the small roof using nice finger pockets. Finish on the fun face past a 5th bolt to a 2 ring anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Walking around the Turtle Head next to Moby Neil o...
BETA PHOTO: Walking around the Turtle Head next to Moby Neil o...
Main wall
BETA PHOTO: Main wall
The distinctive Y of Margie's Curves, with Headsto...
BETA PHOTO: The distinctive Y of Margie's Curves, with Headsto...
The far right end of the Main Wall: Kinesiology cr...
BETA PHOTO: The far right end of the Main Wall: Kinesiology cr...
Pebbles crack.
BETA PHOTO: Pebbles crack.
The first view of Boxcar Rocks through the woods, ...
BETA PHOTO: The first view of Boxcar Rocks through the woods, ...
The road on the right leads to the parking lot. Th...
BETA PHOTO: The road on the right leads to the parking lot. Th...
Reference points: Moby Neil is far left at the sta...
BETA PHOTO: Reference points: Moby Neil is far left at the sta...

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
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By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 10, 2013
Sorted your routes, thanks for adding those S.