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Main Wall

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Crack'n the Code 
Frogs in Space 
Jeopardy 
Laus Deo 
LGK 
Pinhead 
Springboard 
Sunshine on a Dark Day 
Undercover 
Zig Zag 

Main Wall 


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Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the Main Wall at Mt. E...
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Description 

The main wall at Mt. Erie encompasses several walls, and contains many routes with many different styles of climbing. There are steep sport routes and slabs as well as bolted and traditional multi-pitch climbs. The rock on the main wall and surrounding areas is generally solid diorite, fairly clean, and some of the quickest to dry after a rain. The cliff is South to Southwest facing, and as such, receives sun from mid morning until sunset. Climbs here range from 5.7 to 5.12. A good selection of 5.11 climbs exist on the snag buttress. The area is generally not crowded. Helmets are advisable as there are many hiking trails and ledges covered in loose rock above the cliffs.


Getting There 

Parking is in a pullout on the east side of Hart Lake Road 1/8 mile north of the Lake Erie Grocery. Take the 248 trail which leads up into the woods on the right side of the gate. This trail is followed for 5-10 minutes until it comes to a T junction with the 247 trail. Take a right on this trail and walk for another 2-5 minutes, watching for a less traveled unmarked trail on the left. Head left along the less traveled trail, uphill again and into the woods towards the base of the cliff. After moving up a couple short rock steps the trail enters a clearing, which gives a good view of the routes on the Headwall and Snag Buttress. Take the trail the rest of the way up to the cliffs keeping to the right at one last fork (which goes left to Ramp Wall). The trail meets the cliff at a prominent right facing corner, which is the first pitch of Zig Zag. Total approach time is about 15 20 minutes.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',5],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Zig Zag   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Undercover   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Springboard   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Frogs in Space   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Frogs in Space

Frogs in Space 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Main Wall
This is a very fun climb up a steep face with a broken crack system. The climb has a great combination of balance, crimping, crack technique, and technical footwork. The crux seems to be at the third bolt where a short overhanging block must be overcome. The climbing is sustained and a bit pumpy. A combination of bolts and gear provide protection. Fortunately, the bolts protect the hardest moves....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
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By smassey
From: CO
Sep 4, 2011

Summer 2011 some more bolt replacement occurred here. In addition to Frogs, the route to the right of it had the 4 pro bolts replaced, as well as the anchor (now Fixe double-rings). Also, the 5th bolted route right of zigzag had all 7 pro bolts and the anchor replaced. The route two to the right of that also had the anchor replaced.

All new hardware was provided by the ASCA. 1/2"x2.75" Stainless Powers 5-piece with Fixe hangers or double-ring hangers for anchors. This stuff is expensive, so please donate to the ASCA.