BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the Main Wall at Mt. E...
The main wall at Mt. Erie encompasses several walls, and contains many routes with many different styles of climbing. There are steep sport routes and slabs as well as bolted and traditional multi-pitch climbs. The rock on the main wall and surrounding areas is generally solid diorite, fairly clean, and some of the quickest to dry after a rain. The cliff is South to Southwest facing, and as such, receives sun from mid morning until sunset. Climbs here range from 5.7 to 5.12. A good selection of 5.11 climbs exist on the snag buttress. The area is generally not crowded. Helmets are advisable as there are many hiking trails and ledges covered in loose rock above the cliffs.
Parking is in a pullout on the east side of Hart Lake Road 1/8 mile north of the Lake Erie Grocery. Take the 248 trail which leads up into the woods on the right side of the gate. This trail is followed for 5-10 minutes until it comes to a T junction with the 247 trail. Take a right on this trail and walk for another 2-5 minutes, watching for a less traveled unmarked trail on the left. Head left along the less traveled trail, uphill again and into the woods towards the base of the cliff. After moving up a couple short rock steps the trail enters a clearing, which gives a good view of the routes on the Headwall and Snag Buttress. Take the trail the rest of the way up to the cliffs keeping to the right at one last fork (which goes left to Ramp Wall). The trail meets the cliff at a prominent right facing corner, which is the first pitch of Zig Zag. Total approach time is about 15 20 minutes.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
Zig Zag 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Undercover 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Springboard 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Raindown 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Featured Route For Main Wall
Lord of the Dance 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a WA
: Northwest Region
: ... : Main Wall
This is an awesome climb up the right side of the Main Wall. 3 pitches get you to the Top, great exposure.P1: 5.7 60' 5 Bolts; Start on the belay ledge heading up on good holds staying in a corner. Route leads a bit towards the left to a sloping ledge with the anchor. P2: 5.10a 40' 4 Bolts; Starts off on great holds on the left going up and traversing right. The crux comes at the second bolt and well protected. Do some blocky climbing up to the anchor.P3: 5.8 80' 5 Bo...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Sep 4, 2011
Summer 2011 some more bolt replacement occurred here. In addition to Frogs, the route to the right of it had the 4 pro bolts replaced, as well as the anchor (now Fixe double-rings). Also, the 5th bolted route right of zigzag had all 7 pro bolts and the anchor replaced. The route two to the right of that also had the anchor replaced.
All new hardware was provided by the ASCA. 1/2"x2.75" Stainless Powers 5-piece with Fixe hangers or double-ring hangers for anchors. This stuff is expensive, so please donate to the ASCA.