Main Wall  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 470 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  P.L.Roberts, J.K.Cooke 1935 Submitted By:  Chris Owen on Dec 1, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The pinnacle on Pitch 4 (c) Marc Chrysanthou

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Description 

One of Britain's best severes - a long and exposed expedition which although technically easy goes through some pretty steep and spectacular terrain. Simply wonderful.

1) 70ft 5.6. Left up a slab to a grassy ledge. Up a short corner across another slab then step around an edge on the right and go up to a pulpit ledge.

2) 80ft 5.7. Traverse right and up along a gangway to a chimney, a few moves up this lead to a left traverse along a ledge to a piton belay in a corner on the edge of the buttress.

3) 45ft 5.6. Up the arete then up and right to a large triangular ledge.

4) 90ft 5.7. Steep and intricate! Climb to the top of the pinnacle on the left. Now head leftwards across the steep wall and into an alcove. Traverse left around the edge and climb a steep arete, across a chinmey to small slab and belay.

5) 80ft 5.6. Up to an overhang then left to the base of a slab - climb the left side of this in a fantastic position.

6) 100ft. Easier ground to the end of the climb.

Location 

The bottom of the left side of the crag below a traingular roof.

Protection 

Nuts work fine.

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow

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Pitch 2 of Main Wall. (c) Marc Chrysanthou. I once...

Pitch 5 slab. (c) M.C.