This is a great wall with 22 climbs from 5.8 to 5.11 with one 5.12-. I found this area to be a lot of fun with good rock. At first, it was a little scary to yard on the embedded rocks, but they seemed really solid.
After crossing the creek head up and right. I was there in June and a large snow field made the approach a pain. Look for the Family Values buttress and head a little right.
A. Power Grid, 9, 3p, bolts, 230'.
B. Julie's Cherry, 8, 1p, bolts, 100'.
C. Darwin's Rib, 8, 1p, bolts, 120'.
D. Mad Dog, 8, 1p, bolts, 100'.
E. Perturbation Theory, 9, 1p, bolts, 100'.
F. No KLA, 10, 1p, bolts, 100'.
G. How's My Driving, 9, 1p, bolts, 100'.
H. Empty Pockets, 10-, 1p, bolts, 100'.
I. Beta Decay, 10, 1p, bolts, 100'.
J. Knob in my Pocket, 10, 1p, bolts, 100'.
K1. Crystolopolis, 10 PG-13, 1p, gear and bolts.
K2. Crystal Gail, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. Compassionate Conservative, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Mr. Smarty Pants, 10+, 2p, bolts.
N. Oblivion, 10+, 1p, bolts.
O. Billy's Harem, 10+, 1p, bolts.
P. Yank My Chain, 9, 1p, gear & bolts.
Q. Harvest, 11-, 2p, bolts.
R. Heart of Gold, 11+, 2p, bolts.
S. Trickle Down Theory, 11, 1p, bolts.
T. Mother's Little Helper, 11, 1p, bolts.
U. Lobotomy, 12-, 1p, bolts.
V: Shock Theory, 11+, 1p, bolts
16 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
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|By Bob Dobalina|
Jun 3, 2009
This area only gets morning sun and is otherwise dark and chilly. Bring your helmet because there is hundreds of feet of loose rock cliffs above this crag. The consistency of both the rock and steepness of this area make most of the climbs feels very similar to each other.
If you like sport climbing on well bolted San Juan conglomerate in a spectacular alpine setting, you'll love it though!
Bring a helmet, 60m rope, a dozen quickdraws, and raingear.