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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beta Decay S 
Billy's Harem S 
Compassionate Conservative S 
Crystal Gail S 
Darwin's Rib S 
Empty Pockets S 
Heart of Gold S 
How's My Driving S 
Julie's Cherry S 
Knob in my Pocket S 
Lobotomy S 
Mad Dog S 
Perturbation Theory S 
Power Grid S 
Yank My Chain T,S 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dane Casterson on Jun 25, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This is a great wall with 22 climbs from 5.8 to 5.11 with one 5.12-. I found this area to be a lot of fun with good rock. At first, it was a little scary to yard on the embedded rocks, but they seemed really solid.

Getting There 

After crossing the creek head up and right. I was there in June and a large snow field made the approach a pain. Look for the Family Values buttress and head a little right.


A. Power Grid, 9, 3p, bolts, 230'.
B. Julie's Cherry, 8, 1p, bolts, 100'.
C. Darwin's Rib, 8, 1p, bolts, 120'.
D. Mad Dog, 8, 1p, bolts, 100'.
E. Perturbation Theory, 9, 1p, bolts, 100'.
F. No KLA, 10, 1p, bolts, 100'.
G. How's My Driving, 9, 1p, bolts, 100'.
H. Empty Pockets, 10-, 1p, bolts, 100'.
I. Beta Decay, 10, 1p, bolts, 100'.
J. Knob in my Pocket, 10, 1p, bolts, 100'.
K1. Crystolopolis, 10 PG-13, 1p, gear and bolts.
K2. Crystal Gail, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. Compassionate Conservative, 10+, 1p, bolts.
M. Mr. Smarty Pants, 10+, 2p, bolts.
N. Oblivion, 10+, 1p, bolts.
O. Billy's Harem, 10+, 1p, bolts.
P. Yank My Chain, 9, 1p, gear & bolts.
Q. Harvest, 11-, 2p, bolts.
R. Heart of Gold, 11+, 2p, bolts.
S. Trickle Down Theory, 11, 1p, bolts.
T. Mother's Little Helper, 11, 1p, bolts.
U. Lobotomy, 12-, 1p, bolts.
V: Shock Theory, 11+, 1p, bolts

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.0 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
Darwin's Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Power Grid   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 230'   
How's My Driving   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Empty Pockets   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Knob in my Pocket   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Compassionate Conservative   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: You can't see it well, but the route follows the r...

Knob in my Pocket 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Telluride/Norwood area : ... : Main Wall
This has really good climbing with great pockets all the way. It shares the same crux and anchors as Beta Decay....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Darwin's Rib is easy to locate on the main wall.
BETA PHOTO: Darwin's Rib is easy to locate on the main wall.

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
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By Bob Dobalina
Jun 3, 2009
This area only gets morning sun and is otherwise dark and chilly. Bring your helmet because there is hundreds of feet of loose rock cliffs above this crag. The consistency of both the rock and steepness of this area make most of the climbs feels very similar to each other.
If you like sport climbing on well bolted San Juan conglomerate in a spectacular alpine setting, you'll love it though!
Bring a helmet, 60m rope, a dozen quickdraws, and raingear.

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