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The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.
Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Eight Miles High 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Kama Sutra 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Mystic Mile 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Lightspeed 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Wings of Desire 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Mind Bender 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
MLK 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Aerial Boundaries 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Main Wall
Aerial Boundaries 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
This route follows a rounded arete down and right of Black Rain. A fun route that goes free at 5.12a/b, or can be done with one point of aid at 5.10a A0.Follow the approach described in Black Rain. Go 40' up the ramp right of Black Rain, then climb down to a small exposed ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Belay from here. Climb up past three bolts to a small roof (10a). Angle up right and clip the fourth bolt over the roof. Make a difficult move (12a/b) or yard on the quickdraw (A0) and step le...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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