Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries S 
Arcanum T,S 
Crack of Dawn T,S 
Eight Miles High S 
Immaculate Deception T,S 
Kama Sutra T 
Lightspeed S 
Mind Bender S 
MLK T,S 
Mystic Mile S 
Prince Charmer T,S 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 
Tree of Life, The T 
Walk on the Wide Side T 
Wave, The S 
Wings of Desire S 

Main Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 17,740
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.


Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Eight Miles High   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
Kama Sutra   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lightspeed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wings of Desire   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Mind Bender   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
MLK   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Aerial Boundaries   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Ron Olsen angling right at the small roof by the third bolt.  Ron will soon clip the fourth bolt above the roof, and yard on the draw to surmount the roof.

Aerial Boundaries 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
This route follows a rounded arete down and right of Black Rain. A fun route that goes free at 5.12a/b, or can be done with one point of aid at 5.10a A0.Follow the approach described in Black Rain. Go 40' up the ramp right of Black Rain, then climb down to a small exposed ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Belay from here. Climb up past three bolts to a small roof (10a). Angle up right and clip the fourth bolt over the roof. Make a difficult move (12a/b) or yard on the quickdraw (A0) and step le...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Main Wall
Local Shops
A true mountain shop, located in the shadow of Boulder's Flatirons.
Gear that has the best chance of improving your outdoor experience.
Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

[ Read All News ]
Upcoming Events
no events scheduled
Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful anchor above a narrow ledge, 40 feet above the final 2-ring anchor on Wings of Desire.  This anchor is useful if one wishes to finish Kama Sutra, Tree of Life or Wings of Desire at the top of the wall.   <br /> <br />To rappel from this anchor with a single  200-foot rope, it is (I think) necessary to rap to the anchors at the tops of Wings of Desire or Kama Sutra, then down again to the 2-ring anchor atop the first pitch of Kama Sutra.  Then one more time (about 70 feet) to Ledge Two. <br /> <br />NOTE: It is not possible (with a 200-foot rope) to rappel all the way to the first 2-ring anchor on Kama Sutra and make Ledge Two in just 2 raps.  It takes 3 raps to reach Ledge 2 from this anchor at the top of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...
Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -