The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.
Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.
A. Prince Charmer
, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries
, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra
, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life
, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire
, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK
, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side
, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception
, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn
, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile
, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave
, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High
, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender
, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid
, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.
16 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]