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The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.
Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Eight Miles High 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 210'
Kama Sutra 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Mystic Mile 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Lightspeed 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Wings of Desire 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Mind Bender 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
MLK 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Aerial Boundaries 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Featured Route For Main Wall
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
Start just right of Mind Bender at a single bolt belay on a large ledge. Climb straight up from the anchor follow a line of bolts to a small overhang. Veer right under the overhang, reach for good holds and fire straight up to a good stance. At the 7th bolt, you could go left or right. Stay left for this route - the right ones are for Arcanum. Continue up on good holds to a short corner then swing right and then straight up to the anchor. Good route with good protection and holds....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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