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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries 
Arcanum 
Crack of Dawn 
Eight Miles High 
Immaculate Deception 
Kama Sutra 
Lightspeed 
Mind Bender 
MLK 
Mystic Mile 
Prince Charmer 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 
Tree of Life, The 
Walk on the Wide Side 
Wave, The 
Wings of Desire 

Main Wall 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.
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Description 

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.


Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Eight Miles High   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
Kama Sutra   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lightspeed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wings of Desire   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Mind Bender   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
MLK   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Aerial Boundaries   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Peter Dillon at the roof, getting ready to make the clip.

Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
Start just right of Mind Bender at a single bolt belay on a large ledge. Climb straight up from the anchor follow a line of bolts to a small overhang. Veer right under the overhang, reach for good holds and fire straight up to a good stance. At the 7th bolt, you could go left or right. Stay left for this route - the right ones are for Arcanum. Continue up on good holds to a short corner then swing right and then straight up to the anchor. Good route with good protection and holds....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful anchor above a narrow ledge, 40 feet above the final 2-ring anchor on Wings of Desire.  This anchor is useful if one wishes to finish Kama Sutra, Tree of Life or Wings of Desire at the top of the wall.   <br /> <br />To rappel from this anchor with a single  200-foot rope, it is (I think) necessary to rap to the anchors at the tops of Wings of Desire or Kama Sutra, then down again to the 2-ring anchor atop the first pitch of Kama Sutra.  Then one more time (about 70 feet) to Ledge Two. <br /> <br />NOTE: It is not possible (with a 200-foot rope) to rappel all the way to the first 2-ring anchor on Kama Sutra and make Ledge Two in just 2 raps.  It takes 3 raps to reach Ledge 2 from this anchor at the top of the wall.
BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...
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