Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries S 
Arcanum T,S 
Crack of Dawn T,S 
Eight Miles High S 
Immaculate Deception T,S 
Kama Sutra T 
Lightspeed S 
Mind Bender S 
MLK T,S 
Mystic Mile S 
Prince Charmer T,S 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 
Tree of Life, The T 
Walk on the Wide Side T 
Wave, The S 
Wings of Desire S 

Main Wall  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.99654, -105.41685 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,327
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',9],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Eight Miles High   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
Kama Sutra   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lightspeed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wings of Desire   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Mind Bender   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
MLK   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Aerial Boundaries   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Kama Sutra from below.

Kama Sutra 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
The is the best of the trad crack climbs at Sleeping Beauty. It would be 3 stars if cleaner, but as is it is cleaner than the other crack climbs here. Rossiter calls the initial ceiling 10d. It felt about 10b to us--perfect, straightforward jams. I had more trouble higher up at the wide spot that Rossiter calls 5.9.Start: At the left end of Ledge 2 is a "gap" in the ledge where you either have to traverse on the rock and squeeze behind a tree, or drop down about 8 feet and climb back up. Just le...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Main Wall
Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...
BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -