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 ADVANCED
Main Wall- Upper Tier

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Voyager TR 
Bunghole Slot T,TR 
Gorgonzola TR 
Pajarito Gorge Gully T 
Poseidon Adventure, The T,TR 
Route 10 T,TR 
Route 11 T,TR 
Route 12 T,TR 
Route 13 T,TR 
Route 14 T,TR 
Route 15 T,TR 
Route 17 T 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 20 T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Route 3 TR 
Route 4 TR 
Route 6 T,TR 
Route 8 T,TR 
Route 9 T,TR 
Shake It Up S,TR 
Spill the Wine TR 

Main Wall- Upper Tier  


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Location: 35.8115, -106.1996 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,939
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jan 7, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Routes 4 through 9. Route 3 finishes as for Rout...

Description 

This is a mostly south-facing basalt crag with trad and sport routes that are exposed and fun. This gets sun most of the day and is subject to winds because of the nature of the location.

Getting There 

Once in White Rock, turn south on Rover and continue slightly past Rover Park and then take a right on Kimberly. Follow Kimberly to the end of the cul-de-sac and park. From the cul-de-sac on Kimberly, walk south to the cliff edge where you'll overlook the gorge and be above the crag. This is not the east-facing cliff that faces the Rio and the tire art (New New Place). The descent is not obvious. The descent is the only place that looks possible on the south-facing cliff. Descend exposed 4th class down blocks and hand cracks about 15'. Then traverse to the east on a 2' ledge around a corner followed by easier scramble downwards. This gets you to most of the rock climbs here. Rappelling is a good choice for beginners, or if you want to bring your pack to the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here

22 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',7],['5.11',6],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Main Wall- Upper Tier
"Boots" Barto flashing The P.G. Gorge.

Pajarito Gorge Gully WI3 M3  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall- Upper Tier
The crux depends on what shape it is in. It is usually near the bottom and a mental crux at that. This is a great moderate ice route that rarely forms all of the way in. It is lots of fun and not much stress is invoved. It is easier than it looks and offers good gear placements....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Main Wall- Upper Tier Slideshow Add Photo
Routes 14 through 17. As of 9/2010, the bolts on Gorgonzola (Route 16) have hangars.
BETA PHOTO: Routes 14 through 17. As of 9/2010, the bolts on G...
Pajarito Gorge main cliff.  Crappy photo from before the era of digital cameras...
BETA PHOTO: Pajarito Gorge main cliff. Crappy photo from befo...
Routes 12 and 13
BETA PHOTO: Routes 12 and 13
The right side of Pajarito Gorge, Routes 18 through 21.
BETA PHOTO: The right side of Pajarito Gorge, Routes 18 throug...

Comments on Main Wall- Upper Tier Add Comment
Show which comments
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Sep 13, 2010
The downclimb is not *that* bad, but it's still likely the trickiest in White Rock. If you don't like the looks of the downclimb described above, you can also scramble down the blocks about ten feet skier's left of the blank plaque/bench. This is more like 3rd class and less exposed, but is slightly loose.

To be clear, there are two distinct subareas of the Main Wall:

One subarea is climber's left of the "official" approach, and includes routes 1 -17. Some of the climbs, (at least the ones left of #7, maybe some others), face southwest, and therefore are climbable on summer mornings. The rest of the routes face southeast.

The other is climber's right of the "official", and includes routes 18 - 21. This area is directly below the bench/plaque. The climbs here face south, but there are enough deep dihedrals that they are relatively shady on summer mornings.

Both subareas are climber's left of the alternative approach I described.

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I agree with the comments on the main Pajarito Gorge page; there are some really good climbs here, and the area is well worth a visit or two.