L to R R to L Alpha
This is a mostly south-facing basalt crag with trad and sport routes that are exposed and fun. This gets sun most of the day and is subject to winds because of the nature of the location.
Once in White Rock, turn south on Rover and continue slightly past Rover Park and then take a right on Kimberly. Follow Kimberly to the end of the cul-de-sac and park. From the cul-de-sac on Kimberly, walk south to the cliff edge where you'll overlook the gorge and be above the crag. This is not the east-facing cliff that faces the Rio and the tire art (New New Place). The descent is not obvious. The descent is the only place that looks possible on the south-facing cliff. Descend exposed 4th class down blocks and hand cracks about 15'. Then traverse to the east on a 2' ledge around a corner followed by easier scramble downwards. This gets you to most of the rock climbs here. Rappelling is a good choice for beginners, or if you want to bring your pack to the base.
21 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Wall- Upper Tier
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Wall- Upper Tier:
Pajarito Gorge Gully WI3 M3 Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 60'
Route 21 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c Trad, TR, 50'
Route 20 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 55'
Route 14 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, TR, 65'
Route 13 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR, 65'
Air Voyager 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b TR, 60'
Route 9 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, TR, 65'
The Poseidon Adventure 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Route 4 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b TR, 65'
Route 6 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, TR, 70'
Route 11 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, TR, 65'
Route 19 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, TR, 50'
Route 15 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, TR, 60'
Route 3 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a TR, 65'
Route 8 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, TR, 65'
Bunghole Slot 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, TR, 65'
Spill the Wine 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b TR, 60'
Featured Route For Main Wall- Upper Tier
Pajarito Gorge Gully WI3 M3 NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall- Upper Tier
The crux depends on what shape it is in. It is usually near the bottom and a mental crux at that. This is a great moderate ice route that rarely forms all of the way in. It is lots of fun and not much stress is invoved. It is easier than it looks and offers good gear placements....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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