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Glacier Gorge
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Main Squeeze 


Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus: M4-5 [details]
FA: ? Chris Erickson, Tim Hallinan
New Route: Yes
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,306
Submitted By: tim on Nov 24, 2008

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Bad picture of the route from a distance (shutter ...


Probably 6 pitches total if all pitches are roped. We roped up for 3 pitches, all squeeze chimney climbing P1 M4, P2 and 3 M1-2ish, P4 M4+, P5 M4+, P6 M2ish. P1 starts in the large dihedral at the head of the cirque and takes the left branch. The dihedral starts M2-3 and ends in a heel toe squeeze chimney M4, full 60 meter pitch. Pitches 2 and 3 wander mostly on snow with occasional headwalls to the base of the dark ugly chimney visible from the base M2? P4 is strenuous chimneying with small gear and hooks on the left wall M4+. P5 starts at the base of the next obvious dark and slightly overhanging squeeze chimney, there was a wee bit of ice here for us, but not screw worthy M4+. P4 and 5 may combine. P6 is easy mixed to obvious scrambling terrain up a short gully M2? From the top of the gully the descent couloir to sky pond is impossible to miss, head north. Some unreal chimney/squeeze on this route if you like that sort of thing.


ENE face of Powell Peak at the far end of the cirque separating Thatchtop and Arrowhead. Obvious chimney system splitting the westernmost part of the cirque. Descend a couloir dropping North to Sky Pond.


Single rack to a #4, no big gear required despite the amount of chimney, offwidth. Twin or double ropes handy for all the pack hauling. No fixed gear found on our ascent, KBs and Bugaboos come in handy.

Photos of Main Squeeze Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Erickson starting P4, M4+.
Chris Erickson starting P4, M4+.
First pitch dihedral M4-ish, lots of heel/toe for mixed climbing.
First pitch dihedral M4-ish, lots of heel/toe for ...
The chimney system, starting in the shaded dihedral, left branch.
The chimney system, starting in the shaded dihedra...
P1 gets wide in the upper dihedral.
P1 gets wide in the upper dihedral.
Tim Hallinan getting into P5 squeeze chimney, M4+.
Tim Hallinan getting into P5 squeeze chimney, M4+.
Easy mixed on P2-3.
Easy mixed on P2-3.
The gnar on p5.
The gnar on p5.

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