Main Rock, as the name suggests, is the largest formation at Angel Creek, home to the largest concentration of routes. It also boasts the longest routes in the area as well. There are climbs on all aspects of the rock, with the majority (and the best) on the eastern side. The granite ranges from solid on most of the routes to crystalline and crumbly on others. There are two routes generally used to access the bolts and anchors at the top of the formation - South Ridge (5.6) and Access Route (5.5), both of which can be led with a light rack.
Not only is Main Rock the largest block of granite in the area, it's also the farthest from the trail head. For the easiest hike, follow the trail to the elevated boardwalk section and continue up around First Rock, the Teenage Area, and Pumpmaster. You'll approach Main Rock from the northeast side. Another option is to take the faint trail that branches to the left just before the boardwalk section. This trail leads directly to Main Rock, but it's steeper and generally wetter.
Browse More Classics in Main Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Rock:
When Free Climbers Wore Hammers 5.8 Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110 feet
Rappel Route 5.8+ TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Minor Groove 5.9+ Trad, TR, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For Main Rock
When Free Climbers Wore Hammers 5.8 AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : ... : Main Rock
I felt like I was back in the Wasatch while on this route! For the Interior this route deserves 4 stars for these reasons: committing moves over runout terrain and excellent exposure; great length of pitch and aesthetically pleasing, quality rock; and the approach allows you to be on a great route within an hour while feeling very alpine and out of the way. The cruxes hit you at the beginning as you access a great hand crack, and up above where you meet a funky dihedral and s...[more] Browse More Classics in AK