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Main Rock

Select Route:
Access Route T 
Handcrack T,TR 
Major Groove T,TR 
Minor Groove T,TR 
Rappel Route TR 
South Ridge T 
When Free Climbers Wore Hammers T 

Main Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 65.0113, -146.21671 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,647
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Aug 19, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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South side of Main Rock. South Ridge (5.6) follow...


Main Rock, as the name suggests, is the largest formation at Angel Creek, home to the largest concentration of routes. It also boasts the longest routes in the area as well. There are climbs on all aspects of the rock, with the majority (and the best) on the eastern side. The granite ranges from solid on most of the routes to crystalline and crumbly on others. There are two routes generally used to access the bolts and anchors at the top of the formation - South Ridge (5.6) and Access Route (5.5), both of which can be led with a light rack.

Getting There 

Not only is Main Rock the largest block of granite in the area, it's also the farthest from the trail head. For the easiest hike, follow the trail to the elevated boardwalk section and continue up around First Rock, the Teenage Area, and Pumpmaster. You'll approach Main Rock from the northeast side. Another option is to take the faint trail that branches to the left just before the boardwalk section. This trail leads directly to Main Rock, but it's steeper and generally wetter.

Climbing Season

For the Fairbanks and Vicinity area.

Weather station 9.2 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Rock:
When Free Climbers Wore Hammers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Rock

Featured Route For Main Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel Johnson near the top of Major Groove.

Major Groove 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  AK : Fairbanks and Vicinity : ... : Main Rock
Major Groove climbs the wide crack just to the left of the Access Route. Face climb (crux) to the base of the groove/crack. Grunt your way up the crack with a combination of face, crack, and chimney techniques. Not a difficult climb, and like the Access Route, very short....[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

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