Me belaying a friend on the Mickeys main wall
This is the main rock at Mickey's beach. When you head down the main path into Mickey's beach, this will be the prominent rock you see. There are approximately 20 routes on the main rock, mostly quite tough. There are two 5.10's (a b and c) and then a few .11d's, the rest comprising of .12's and lower end 13's.
There are no access issues here, as the state parks system has turned a blind eye on the area. All they ask is that if you bolt, make sure to maintain what you've added.
There are tons of classics on the main rock, and if you're into tough climbing and are spending some time in the bay area and don't want to drive more than a few hours, this is where you should be.
This area will be in the sun most of the time, but some of the lower routes are tide dependent, as the rock sits literally on the beach. Beware of fog in the morning, and also in the winter months.
From the main parking lot, head down the major path that was recently cleaned (September 14th, 2002 thank you Rock Rendevous). The main rock will be the prominent rock in the middle of the first cluster you see as you come to the beach.
The majority of climbs are around the right side of the rock.
Weather station 3.6 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Main Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Rock:
Corner Route 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Left Slab 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
R Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Nancy 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Courtney 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Hot Tuna 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Pelicans 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Wet Dreams 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Main Rock
Sex Porpoises 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b CA
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Main Rock
This is the rightmost route on the southwest face of the main rock. To access this route, you can walk around the right side of the main rock at low tide, but at high tide it's probably best to find a path down the slippery section on the south side of the rock from the main junction that you would take to get to the top of the main rock. This route has a little bit of everything. Powerful pulls, balancy sections, roof sections and near vertical bouldering sections. The route is pretty susta...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Friend max on the easy part of the rock.
BETA PHOTO: From the approach, about halfway down the trail. T...
By Ian J Walters
Aug 21, 2016
Hey folks, someone swiped 6 of my draws (5 brand new black/gold black diamond and 1 old gray BD draw) off of 'Sturgeon' either 9/19 or 9/20. If that was you or you know the person who grabbed them, please email me at email@example.com. Thank you!