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The Main Pinecliffe Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Frenzy T 
Hardman Jr. S 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Longhaired Freaky People T,S 
Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp S 
Pica S 
Vanderslice, The T 

The Main Pinecliffe Crag 


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Location: 39.9314, -105.4209 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 5, 2002
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Arpita Kishen on unnamed Coal Creek Climb.
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Description 

This is the location of about 20 routes, mostly mentioned in the Front Range Crags guide by Peter Hubbel. This granite crag is located perhaps a quarter-mile East of the parking area, adjacent to the railroad tracks, near the town of Pinecliffe. The routes face various directions. Find trad, sport, and mixed climbs here.


Getting There 

From CO Hwy 72 & CO Hwy 93, head West up Coal Creek Canyon (CO Hwy 72) to the town of Pinecliffe. Turn right. Find a legal parking spot. Walk along the railroad tracks East to the crag about 1/4 mile. Beware, hiking along the tracks may not be welcome. Climb.


L->R: 

A. Mars Missle, 10-, 1p, bolts.
B. Hardman Junior, 11-, 1p, bolts.
C1. Knuckle Sandwich, 10, 1p, gear.
C2. Pica, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Don't Blame the Youth, 13, bolts, up above.
E. Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp, 11, 1p, bolts.
F. Long Haired Freaky People, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.

These people were responsible for the bolts: Mark Pell (aka Eddie Pain), Gus Glitch, Alvino Pon, Hank Caylor, Ryan Mills, Evd, Z. Pomtier.

There are also three routes at the base.

G. Vampire, 11.
H. Why Not?, 8.
I. Unknown name, 5.9.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Main Pinecliffe Crag

Pica 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Coal Creek Canyon : ... : The Main Pinecliffe Crag
This is a stiff sport route on the left side of the main Pinecliffe crag. Climb thin moves angling right from the start of Knuckle Sandwich over a small roof, following a small dihedral and face to the left to a 2 bolt anchor. There are 2 cruxes. Rap the route 70 feet....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for The Main Pinecliffe Crag
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Shaft (main crag) area.
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Comments on The Main Pinecliffe Crag Add Comment
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By cdg
Apr 21, 2008

I went here yesterday 4/20/08 and there are no trespassing signs all over the place. I live just up the road and have climbed here for 15 years. Have not been in maybe 2 years. Does anyone know the story? Thanks.

By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
May 12, 2008

cdg- Where exactly did you see the no trespassing signs? Along the railroad tracks on the way in?

By cdg
May 19, 2008

Brent,the signs were on the north side of the river down low in the woods by the old "fishing trail". These signs would make Frenzy and the sport routes up high off limits. I again have been climbing off and on here for quite a few years and no problems. Just wanted to know of new ownership of the area or is it the railroad or what? I can not find any info in Gilpin county. Thanks, cdg.

By Gary Hann
From: Coal Creek Canyon,Colorado
Aug 19, 2008

I went to Pinecliff today 19 Aug 08 and discovered the "No Trespassing" signs. One on a tree in front of the Waterfall Route and another up top on a tree near Frenzy along with a second sign that states "No Climbing Thank You". I have been bouldering here for at least 15 years and hiking for at least 22 years, can they really close this area? Has anybody found out what is going on?

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 19, 2008

Apparently the land is privately owned and was posted recently. The land owner does not live in the area and may be concerned about liability, but I don't know any more than that. Also, the community of Pinecliff owns some of the areas around the tracks & I'm not sure what their rules are. Probably a good idea to keep things low key if you go thru those areas though.

By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Sep 6, 2008

I've heard that the owner's big concern is about a recent increase in trash; broken glass, etc.

By evd
Sep 28, 2009

To the false claimers of first ascents at Pinecliffe. The bolted routes on the main cliff were done by myself and friends in the early to mid nineties. They are from left to right...Mars Missle(10a), Hardman Junior (11a), Pica (12a), Don't Blame the Youth (13), Nocturnal Leg Muscle Cramp (11), Long Haired Freaky People (10). Back then we also climbed the trad routes. These people were responsible for the bolts: Eddie Pain, Gus Glitch, Alvino Pon, Hank Caylor, Ryan Mills, Evd, Z. Pomtier. There are also three routes at the base...Vampire (11), Why Not?(8), and a 5.9 to the right up a black streak I can't remember the name of.
To my knowledge the private land ends west of the cliff.

By Mark Pell
Mar 1, 2013

So sorry to hear that access has become an issue at a place that was one of my favorite hideaways in the Denver/Boulder area. I first started bouldering and exploring alone out there at crags all along the tracks in the mid-'80s, and I climbed there often in the 1990s with Vino, Ryan, Eric, Hank, Gus, and Butch, among others. We kept the place immaculately clean, and we always maintained a low profile while climbing and hanging out. Once when it was too cold and snowy to climb, Alvino Pon and I spent an entire day removing unsightly grafitti from the lower rocks along the river that had been painted by Denver gangstaz. One thing about this spot - you cannot avoid being seen by folks from across the river or up the road, unless the only climbs you do are on the hidden right (east) side of the main rock where there is sadly not much to choose from. I hope someday this access situation improves, but I'll always be thankful for all the great times I had out there with my friends.