One of the best summer crags in the SE before 2PM when it comes into the sun. The cliff doesn't get any sun in winter. Most of the routes here go through a low roof then up excellent slightly less than vertical granite for the rest of the ride. The cliff receives an oddly low amount of traffic for a cliff this good which is probably due to a combination of the difficulty of the routes (5.11+ and up) and the long approach (almost as long as laurel knob's).
Either hike below the south face of the courthouse or hike to the east end of the catwalk ledge. In either case, Hike up to the ridgeline east of the devil's courthouse and follow the trail as it winds its way through huckleberry bushes then down a short slab, then follow the trail as it jogs a little left then a little right near a boulder and then down the obvious to follow steep section of the trail through rhodos to the base of the cliff.
Browse More Classics in Main North Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main North Face:
Bare-Knuckle Boxing 5.11c Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Curt Johnson Memorial Route 5.12b Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet
Featured Route For Main North Face
Curt Johnson Memorial Route 5.12b NC : Whiteside Mountain : ... : Main North Face
An amazing roof crack bars the way to some nice moderate face climbing. Though it says 5 pitches it can easily be done in 3 or 4 if you tolerate some rope drag. Jim Corbett aided the roof crack many years ago and Shannon Stegg finished the route with Wayne and I recently. The route is named after Curt Johnson, a climber who died of cancer a couple years ago. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NC