|Morning Glory Wall
Smith Rock's version of an 8,000 meter peak, Main Line rises high above the Morning Glory wall. It begins by climbing the start(and crux) of Energy Crisis, then traverses left into a shallow scoop just right of Lion's Chair. You'll find technical & highly interesting stemming for several bolts (main crux), followed by a pumping 5.11 crack. At the 100 ft mark you get another large rest, followed by the redpoint crux: a butthole puckering 50 ft slab of flawless red stone. From here to the summit felt similar to climbing Watts Tots.
A highly involved, but worthwhile endeavor.
Just left of Magic Light.
14 bolts. Use long slings.
Convience minded climbers should consider using a 90+ meter rope. Otherwise use the rap station at the 100 ft mark.
|By Andrew Hunzicker|
Dec 16, 2013
Really great route and good description Ryan! What a long and varied route! The only downside is the "energy crisis" start. A more pure and direct line (not to mention much more fun) would start on the 5.10 perfect dihedral to lower left of scoop. Other than the start, this is a 5 star!