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This is the prominent, tallest (300') face in the center of Double Upper Cliff. The left hand margin is defined by a vegetated gully system known as "Vegetable Garden" (a fine winter mixed route). The right margin is marked by a series of bushy left facing corners extending to the top of the cliff. The center bottomless left facing corner is the route Erotic Nut Selections or "Captain's Crack".
Follow the preston pond trail to the herd path leading right at the base of the cliff. Take this trail up and directly to the base of the main wall.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Face:
Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Main Face
Hike up to the main wall at Double Upper (or alternatively, climb Cadet's Corner) and go to the far right end of the ledge (beyond Ladybug and Night Crawlers) to a left facing chimney/flake system. Scramble up through brush toward the chimney/flake and locate a bolt about 25' up the slab above. Head up the slab, clip the bolt, pull a techy crux into a small left facing corner. Get gear then climb past 4 bolts and another series of technical moves. Jog slightly right to a corner/roof system. ...[more] Browse More Classics in VT
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