This is the prominent, tallest (300') face in the center of Double Upper Cliff. The left hand margin is defined by a vegetated gully system known as "Vegetable Garden" (a fine winter mixed route). The right margin is marked by a series of bushy left facing corners extending to the top of the cliff. The center bottomless left facing corner is the route Erotic Nut Selections or "Captain's Crack".
Follow the preston pond trail to the herd path leading right at the base of the cliff. Take this trail up and directly to the base of the main wall.
Browse More Classics in Main Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Face:
Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet
Featured Route For Main Face
The best 5.8 at Double Upper and quite possibly the best 5.8 in Bolton. Follow many bolts on the left margin of the main face up low angle terrain to an overhang halfway up the cliff. Pull the overhang on jugs to a ledge with a two bolt belay. P2 : Climb up behind the massive horn of rock with occasional gear to the top of the cliff. Choose from any number of trees to rappel off. ...[more] Browse More Classics in VT