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Main Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) T 
Heavy Weather T 
Peregrination T 
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn T 
Unsorted Routes:

Main Face  


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Administrators: Chris Duca, Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012
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Description 

This is the prominent, tallest (300') face in the center of Double Upper Cliff. The left hand margin is defined by a vegetated gully system known as "Vegetable Garden" (a fine winter mixed route). The right margin is marked by a series of bushy left facing corners extending to the top of the cliff. The center bottomless left facing corner is the route Erotic Nut Selections or "Captain's Crack".

Getting There 

Follow the preston pond trail to the herd path leading right at the base of the cliff. Take this trail up and directly to the base of the main wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.8 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Face:
Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.)   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in Main Face

Featured Route For Main Face
Above the crux overhang on Peregrination

Peregrination 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  VT : Bolton Area : ... : Main Face
P1 - 120' 5.10c 5.7 PG13 - Look for a bolt about 20' up juggy, dirty face climbing. Follow three bolts up to a 5.8 slab section and a shallow ledge with a juggy flake. Clip a bolt and pull a roof onto hollow holds. Beware of a loose quartz hold at the roof. Move up and left on hollow flakes to a bolt and continue trending up and left on 5.6/7 terrain to the big roof. Make an exposed clip (slightly runout) over the roof and pull the roof to a stance.Climb past 3 more bolts to a spacious belay ...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

Comments on Main Face Add Comment
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By june m
From: elmore ,vt
Oct 17, 2014
I believe the original name was exotic nut selection, before someone decided to retrobolt, one of which came out in my hand , but the upper bolts are good