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Main Face

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Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) 
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn 

Main Face 


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Administrators: Chris Duca, Luc, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012
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Description 

This is the prominent, tallest (300') face in the center of Double Upper Cliff. The left hand margin is defined by a vegetated gully system known as "Vegetable Garden" (a fine winter mixed route). The right margin is marked by a series of bushy left facing corners extending to the top of the cliff. The center bottomless left facing corner is the route Erotic Nut Selections or "Captain's Crack".


Getting There 

Follow the preston pond trail to the herd path leading right at the base of the cliff. Take this trail up and directly to the base of the main wall.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Face:
Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.)   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in Main Face

Featured Route For Main Face

Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  VT : Bolton Area : ... : Main Face
Another hidden gem at Double Upper. You can do this as one long pitch but I think it's better as two.Pitch 1 runs up and slightly right on easy slabs, passing a few bolts (with optional gear in between) then past a short tricky steeper spot to get to a two-bolt belay/rap anchor.Pitch 2 moves up steeper ground past two bolts to an overlap, then up the left-facing bottomless corner. Then breaking right up easy ground to the spacious, pleasant ledge. The view from here is superb. Two raps with ...[more]   Browse More Classics in VT

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