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 ADVANCED
Main Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
Balance Climb 7 T 
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
Balance Climb 2 T 
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
Balance Climb 9 T 
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 
Dihedral T 
Edges to Ledges T 
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
Three Cam Party T 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Main Face  


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Page Views: 21,349
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 7, 2007
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Description 

The Main Face has the largest number of routes and the longest climbs at Mount Yonah, including some multi-pitch. Many of the routes were established by the Army for training purposes; though fun, there's a certain sameness about these, both in the climbing and the route names. However, there are some challenging routes on this wall as well, such as Stannard's Crack and Special Edition.

This is an excellent place to set up topropes for beginning climbers, as there is a whole section of 5.easy routes where the anchors can be reached simply by climbing with the help of a cable (to which you clip your daisy chain). These are also a great training ground for new trad leaders.

Getting There 

From the lower LZ, follow the trail signs for the Main Face. When you get to the cliff, you'll find cables strung to aid in making the 4th-class scramble to the cliffline trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.2 miles from here

31 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',16],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Face:
Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Fat Bitches in the Sky   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 20'   
Edges to Ledges   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Latest Edition   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Three Cam Party   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Limited Edition   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Stannard's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Obscured By Clouds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Special Edition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Stairway to Heaven   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Afternoon Delight   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Main Face

Featured Route For Main Face
Paul following LSD.

Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  GA : Mount Yonah : Main Face
LSD offers thin balancy slab climbing past three bolts to a bolted belay. First bolt is high. There is a second optional pitch that goes up underneath the second overhang. Rap from bolts up there....[more]   Browse More Classics in GA

Photos of Main Face Slideshow Add Photo
approach to the main face
approach to the main face
just a helpful route guide,I always get the routes mixed up when i get up there.
BETA PHOTO: just a helpful route guide,I always get the routes...
These guys are always around on the Main Face.  I think this is a vulture but I know there are some eagles around Yonah as well.
These guys are always around on the Main Face. I ...
right near the LZ
right near the LZ
Gather No Moss
Gather No Moss
I set up a "bivy" above Balance climb 3 where the cable is, to practice sleeping on a route. Unfortunately I got in the way of the Army instructors and felt like an idiot. My sleeping bag fell down the face to where the instructors were. I never got to apologize, but i wanted to thank them for letting me climb routes they weren't using.
I set up a "bivy" above Balance climb 3 ...

Comments on Main Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chase Bowman
From: Canton, Georgia
Jul 29, 2014
Be careful if you climb here in the winter. My brother and I went up to the main face in early January and there was ice everywhere. it was do dangerous to climb because of the ice fall.
By Chase Bowman
From: Canton, Georgia
Sep 29, 2014
All of the Balance climbs have Two bolts right below the cable that spans across the top. The Bolts now have rappel rings. The rap rings were not placed by the Army.