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This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.
At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.
20 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Mosquito Burrito 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105'
Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Midge Squadron 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Meteor Rhoadblock 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Next to Nothing 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 2 pitches, 60'
Amazing Face 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 2 pitches
Featured Route For Main Crag
Midge Squadron 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
This route lies about 6-10 feet left of "Bad Girls Get Spanked" and on the same face. In the attached picture, "Bad Girls" is the climb drawn in. Hike up the trail from Pratice Rock as for "Bad Girls; or "Mosquito Burrito." Climb past the first two bolts on the rounded face and slab, which are shared with "Bad Girls," then pull onto the left-most line of bolts on the face on the left and run to the top.Unlike Bad Girls, this...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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