L to R R to L Alpha
This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.
At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.
20 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Mosquito Burrito 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105'
Chihuahua Enchilada 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Midge Squadron 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Meteor Rhoadblock 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Next to Nothing 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 2 pitches, 60'
Super Bon Bon 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Shiny Dog 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Amazing Face 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 2 pitches
Featured Route For Main Crag
Take the Termites Bowling 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
This route is the farthest right in the gully which separates the two separate rock formations at the bowling alley. There are three routes here that are really close together. One of them should of been left as a toprope. Climb up on good golds to a seam, lieback and an interesting crux. The bolts stay on your left for most of the climb. They seem to be a little far to the left for the bottom, but that might be due to loose rock....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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