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DescriptionA relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag. Getting ThereAt 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Mosquito Burrito 5.8 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105 feet
Chihuahua Enchilada 5.10d R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11 Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Midge Squadron 5.11b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Meteor Rhoadblock 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch
Next to Nothing 5.12b Sport, 2 pitches, 60 feet
Shiny Dog 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch
Amazing Face 5.12c Sport, 2 pitches
Featured Route For Main Crag
Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11 CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
Great route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling. Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the left of two cr...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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