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Main Crag
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Face 
Bad Girls Get Spanked 
Bloodstone 
Bowling Ball and Chain 
Chihuahua Enchilada 
Digital Divide 
Frothing Green 
Gutter Ball 
Lucky Strike 
Meteor Rhoadblock 
Midge Squadron 
Mosquito Burrito 
Next to Nothing 
Oil Pan Hook Shot 
Pooky Proof 
Shiny Dog 
Singin' in the Rain 
Super Bon Bon 
Take the Termites Bowling 
Woody's Landlord 

Main Crag 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.

Description 

A relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.

The following routes are on Main Crag of Bowling Alley, about 75 yards before Practice Rock. L->R:

A. Lucky Strike, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Frothing Green, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts
C. Next To Nothing, 12, 2p, 105', bolts.
D. Amazing Face, 12+, 2p, 105', bolts.
E. Meteor Roadblock, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F1. Super Bon Bon, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F2. Shiny Dog, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Taking The Termites Bowling, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

Above a ledge half-way up:

AA. P2 of Next To Nothing, 12, 1p, bolts.
BB. continuation of Amazing Face, 12+, 1p, bolts.
CC. Bloodstone, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
DD. Oil Pan Hook Shot, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
EE. Singin' in the Rain, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
FF. Bowling Ball And Chain, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Down and R:

H. Digital Divide, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Midge Squadron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
J. Bad Girls Get Spanked, 11, 1p, 90',bolts.
K. Pooky Proof, 7+, 1p, 105', gear.
L. Mosquito Burrito, 8 or 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
M. Chihuahua Enchilada, 10+ R, 1p, gear.


Getting There 

At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Mosquito Burrito   5.8     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105 feet   
Chihuahua Enchilada   5.10d R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Bad Girls Get Spanked   5.11     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Midge Squadron   5.11b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Meteor Rhoadblock   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Next to Nothing   5.12b     Sport, 2 pitches, 60 feet   
Shiny Dog   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Amazing Face   5.12c     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Main Crag

Featured Route For Main Crag

Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
Great route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling. Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the left of two cr...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Main Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling Alley

BETA PHOTO: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...


Comments on Main Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2003

Is this named the Bowling Alley because of the car noise? (Bowling alleys are loud.) It's extremely loud and distracting. It made communication hard at times even though we were only about 60-80 feet apart.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2005
Gear Alert

I was climbing here a couple of weeks ago on that unnamed 5.9 that's only 3 bolts. I was toproping, and as I went to clean the route, I pulled a pretty big chunk of rock off right below the anchors. I don't know for certain if it compromised the integrity of the anchors, but I didn't trust it much (since I was up there!). It wasn't that the anchors were going or anything, but it was scary how easily I yanked off that big chunk. It just makes me wonder a bit about the rock that the anchors are drilled in to. I'm no rock master or anything, but I would suggest either not climbing it at all, and if you absolutely have to, then don't toprope it and rap off the anchors when you clean it. I'm probably being overly cautious here, and I'm sure it's probably fine, but I would feel awful if people didn't at least know about it and something did happen. Sorry to post as an "anonymous coward!" I don't have much time to set up a name.