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 ADVANCED
Main Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Face S 
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 
Bloodstone T 
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 
Digital Divide T 
Frothing Green S 
Gutter Ball T 
Lucky Strike S 
Meteor Rhoadblock S 
Midge Squadron S 
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 
Next to Nothing S 
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 
Pooky Proof T 
Shiny Dog S 
Singin' in the Rain T 
Super Bon Bon S 
Take the Termites Bowling S 
Woody's Landlord T 

Main Crag  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.

Seasonal Raptor Closure - Lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.

The following routes are on Main Crag of Bowling Alley, about 75 yards before Practice Rock. L->R:

A. Lucky Strike, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Frothing Green, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts
C. Next To Nothing, 12, 2p, 105', bolts.
D. Amazing Face, 12+, 2p, 105', bolts.
E. Meteor Roadblock, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F1. Super Bon Bon, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F2. Shiny Dog, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Taking The Termites Bowling, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

Above a ledge half-way up:

AA. P2 of Next To Nothing, 12, 1p, bolts.
BB. continuation of Amazing Face, 12+, 1p, bolts.
CC. Bloodstone, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
DD. Oil Pan Hook Shot, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
EE. Singin' in the Rain, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
FF. Bowling Ball And Chain, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Down and R:

H. Digital Divide, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Midge Squadron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
J. Bad Girls Get Spanked, 11, 1p, 90',bolts.
K. Pooky Proof, 7+, 1p, 105', gear.
L. Mosquito Burrito, 8 or 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
M. Chihuahua Enchilada, 10+ R, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.5 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Mosquito Burrito   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105'   
Chihuahua Enchilada   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bad Girls Get Spanked   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Midge Squadron   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Meteor Rhoadblock   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Next to Nothing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 60'   
Super Bon Bon   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Shiny Dog   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Amazing Face   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Main Crag

Featured Route For Main Crag
Peter Beal climbing the Shiny Dog and by-passing t...

Shiny Dog 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
This route is just to the left of Take the Termites Bowling and is squeezed. Climb up good liebacks to a big move past the first bolt to a good right hand hold. Skip the drilled pocket for more interesting climbing past the second bolt, and continue up the overhanging arete. The climb using holds right next to the bolts on Take the Termites Bowling, but it does follow an independent line of moves. Skipping the pocket does not change the grade....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Main Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...
BETA PHOTO: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...

Comments on Main Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 11, 2003
Is this named the Bowling Alley because of the car noise? (Bowling alleys are loud.) It's extremely loud and distracting. It made communication hard at times even though we were only about 60-80 feet apart.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2005
Gear Alert
I was climbing here a couple of weeks ago on that unnamed 5.9 that's only 3 bolts. I was toproping, and as I went to clean the route, I pulled a pretty big chunk of rock off right below the anchors. I don't know for certain if it compromised the integrity of the anchors, but I didn't trust it much (since I was up there!). It wasn't that the anchors were going or anything, but it was scary how easily I yanked off that big chunk. It just makes me wonder a bit about the rock that the anchors are drilled in to. I'm no rock master or anything, but I would suggest either not climbing it at all, and if you absolutely have to, then don't toprope it and rap off the anchors when you clean it. I'm probably being overly cautious here, and I'm sure it's probably fine, but I would feel awful if people didn't at least know about it and something did happen. Sorry to post as an "anonymous coward!" I don't have much time to set up a name.
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