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This is a great route that screams to all climbers entering Rock Canyon for the first time, "Come climb me!" It is situated high up above the road and is a perfect crack that splits the Ed and Terry Wall.
The route eats up as much hand size gear as you have. But be warned, you might need to get creative if you only have a standard trad rack and don't like to take long falls. But really, how can you fall out? The crack is that good! (Okay, if your crack technique is weak, you could possibly fall out...)
"Main" crack sums it up. Climb up the obvious crack through a roof and follow it as it curves left until it tops out at chains.
Descent: A 60 meter rope will reach the ground. A 50 meter rope won't. I was able to set up a toprope for my second using a 60 meter, but it just barely reaches.
A standard trad rack works, however, you will love having as many #2 and #3 camalots (or their equivalents) as you own. Actually, you don't really need a standard rack, just the size I mentioned above.
Picture taken by Tim Gillis, Jason coming up on th...
Wedged under the overhang. One of the funnest cli...
Andrew Stireman workin' his Mojo
Marc Jensen nearing the top of Main Crack...
just below the chains.
Rapping down Main Crack.
|By Lee Jensen|
Oct 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Approach: The Main Crack is barely visiable from the Rock Canyon trailhead. It is the biggest crack that splits the large wall sitting above the Red Slab (on the South side of the canyon). Start your appraoch just as you would for Red Slab. Go all the way to the South of Red Slab and scramble up the 5.2 rocks (with the assistance of a fixed cable that goes over the "dicey" parts at the top of Red Slab. Then scamble up the next smaller rock face and traverse up the small ravine to the Main Crack.
First time I did this route I placed all my larger cams at the bottom and ended up running out the last 30 feet because there was no where to stick smaller pieces up above. However, the crack is really secure and limited protection shouldn't be too much of a probably if you don't have a lot of medium/large cams.
The bulge in the middle of the route forms the crux.
There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top.
|By Abe Tomco|
Oct 22, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This is the climb that I learned to trad/crack climb on. I love it and it is still fun to climb every time. The climb tops out around 300 feet above the canyon trail, giving a great feeling of exposure. Bring lots of med-large size cams or hexes. Make sure to save 3-4 big pieces for the second half. Just like the guy above I ran out of big pieces after the crux and had to run it out (we're talking ground fall) wearing approach shoes.
|By Mark Gillis|
Aug 20, 2005
I think this is one of the finest 5.7's Rock Canyon has to offer. For those sport climbers that can't imagen how a 5.7 would be hard, remember this is a trad climb, with no bolts till the top, and needing a creative approach to make a standard rack place even protection to the top. Its a different game, and a lot of fun.
|By Stephen Sagers|
Sep 2, 2005
Climbing this route was a blast! Being that I don't have any trad equipment I had to toprope with the Flakes anchors (just to the left). There is an overhang about 2/3 the way up that can be a little on the daunting side, but if you wedge yourself up so your back is supporting you, you can reach up with a free hand to a very nice grip just over the overhang.
|By Bad Sock Puppet|
Jul 25, 2008
Ok route. The approach is a nightmare while carrying all your trad gear, and the belay spot is more or less a rock slide. I must of sent five or so 20 lb rocks hurling down over Red Slab (as I crossed my fingers hoping no one would be hit). The crux is in the middle just at the small roof. The face is so littered with holds that you really have to force yourself to stay in the crack. Save your big stuff for last. The chains are in a lousy spot, so if you're looking to toprope it, plan to extend the chains out six feet or face the possibility of major rope wear. Believe me I am a fan of trad climbing, but I would recommend just going up to Green Monster Crack rather than doing this one. Nice view though...
|By Tristan Higbee|
Apr 23, 2009
I toproped this one about a million years ago and just finally led it this morning. Wow. This is a freaking fantastic climb. Great rock, long, steep, with bomber gear, great location... How could a single pitch 5.7 trad route get better??
May 1, 2009
Fun climb, easy going and never asking for to much commitment. Only recommendation is that if you like to climb protected, bring (3) BD #3's, just before the roof, on top of the roof and a little bit higher than that. ~3.5 fits down lower, but not higher...beginning and end of the route offers lots of solid options in the .75,1,and 2 sizes.
May 29, 2009
I don't think the approach is that bad at all. It's like an 8 minute walk to Red Slab, and it's not that far above that.
The route protects well without doubles in any cam sizes if you bring a few hexes also.
|By Thomas Holmes|
Nov 1, 2011
Awesome climb! take more number 3 Camelots than anything. save the blues for after the roof...
|By Christian Weaver|
May 30, 2012
This is the route I learned to trad on many years ago. It is not that bad and go for beginners. Save your 2ís and 3ís for the second half of the climb. Check out my detailed description of the route at VerticalCountry.com