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Ed and Terry Wall
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First Kiss T,TR 
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North Chimney T 
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Y Crack, The T 

Main Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: "Ed"
Page Views: 6,021
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Sep 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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Marc Jensen nearing the top of Main Crack.


This is a great route that screams to all climbers entering Rock Canyon for the first time, "Come climb me!" It is situated high up above the road and is a perfect crack that splits the Ed and Terry Wall.

The route eats up as much hand size gear as you have. But be warned, you might need to get creative if you only have a standard trad rack and don't like to take long falls. But really, how can you fall out? The crack is that good! (Okay, if your crack technique is weak, you could possibly fall out...)

"Main" crack sums it up. Climb up the obvious crack through a roof and follow it as it curves left until it tops out at chains.

Descent: A 60 meter rope will reach the ground. A 50 meter rope won't. I was able to set up a toprope for my second using a 60 meter, but it just barely reaches.


A standard trad rack works, however, you will love having as many #2 and #3 camalots (or their equivalents) as you own. Actually, you don't really need a standard rack, just the size I mentioned above.

Photos of Main Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: just below the chains.
just below the chains.
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture taken by Tim Gillis, Jason coming up on th...
Picture taken by Tim Gillis, Jason coming up on th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marc Jensen midway up Main Crack.
Marc Jensen midway up Main Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: crux...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wedged under the overhang.  One of the funnest cli...
Wedged under the overhang. One of the funnest cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Stireman workin' his Mojo
Andrew Stireman workin' his Mojo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping down Main Crack.
Rapping down Main Crack.

Comments on Main Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 5, 2015
By Lee Jensen
Oct 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Approach: The Main Crack is barely visiable from the Rock Canyon trailhead. It is the biggest crack that splits the large wall sitting above the Red Slab (on the South side of the canyon). Start your appraoch just as you would for Red Slab. Go all the way to the South of Red Slab and scramble up the 5.2 rocks (with the assistance of a fixed cable that goes over the "dicey" parts at the top of Red Slab. Then scamble up the next smaller rock face and traverse up the small ravine to the Main Crack.

First time I did this route I placed all my larger cams at the bottom and ended up running out the last 30 feet because there was no where to stick smaller pieces up above. However, the crack is really secure and limited protection shouldn't be too much of a probably if you don't have a lot of medium/large cams.

The bulge in the middle of the route forms the crux.

There is a two bolt anchor with chains at the top.
By Abe Tomco
Oct 22, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is the climb that I learned to trad/crack climb on. I love it and it is still fun to climb every time. The climb tops out around 300 feet above the canyon trail, giving a great feeling of exposure. Bring lots of med-large size cams or hexes. Make sure to save 3-4 big pieces for the second half. Just like the guy above I ran out of big pieces after the crux and had to run it out (we're talking ground fall) wearing approach shoes.
By Mark Gillis
Aug 20, 2005

I think this is one of the finest 5.7's Rock Canyon has to offer. For those sport climbers that can't imagen how a 5.7 would be hard, remember this is a trad climb, with no bolts till the top, and needing a creative approach to make a standard rack place even protection to the top. Its a different game, and a lot of fun.
By Stephen Sagers
Sep 2, 2005

Climbing this route was a blast! Being that I don't have any trad equipment I had to toprope with the Flakes anchors (just to the left). There is an overhang about 2/3 the way up that can be a little on the daunting side, but if you wedge yourself up so your back is supporting you, you can reach up with a free hand to a very nice grip just over the overhang.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 25, 2008

Ok route. The approach is a nightmare while carrying all your trad gear, and the belay spot is more or less a rock slide. I must of sent five or so 20 lb rocks hurling down over Red Slab (as I crossed my fingers hoping no one would be hit). The crux is in the middle just at the small roof. The face is so littered with holds that you really have to force yourself to stay in the crack. Save your big stuff for last. The chains are in a lousy spot, so if you're looking to toprope it, plan to extend the chains out six feet or face the possibility of major rope wear. Believe me I am a fan of trad climbing, but I would recommend just going up to Green Monster Crack rather than doing this one. Nice view though...
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT (temporarily)
Apr 23, 2009

I toproped this one about a million years ago and just finally led it this morning. Wow. This is a freaking fantastic climb. Great rock, long, steep, with bomber gear, great location... How could a single pitch 5.7 trad route get better??
By Klimbien
From: St.George Orem Littleton Vegas
May 1, 2009

Fun climb, easy going and never asking for to much commitment. Only recommendation is that if you like to climb protected, bring (3) BD #3's, just before the roof, on top of the roof and a little bit higher than that. ~3.5 fits down lower, but not higher...beginning and end of the route offers lots of solid options in the .75,1,and 2 sizes.
By builttospill
May 29, 2009

I don't think the approach is that bad at all. It's like an 8 minute walk to Red Slab, and it's not that far above that.

The route protects well without doubles in any cam sizes if you bring a few hexes also.
By Thomas Holmes
From: Utah
Nov 1, 2011

Awesome climb! take more number 3 Camelots than anything. save the blues for after the roof...
By Christian Weaver
May 30, 2012

This is the route I learned to trad on many years ago. It is not that bad and go for beginners. Save your 2’s and 3’s for the second half of the climb.
By James Leavy
From: Provo, Uah
Mar 10, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One of the best routes up rock canyon for sure. A lot of great diversity for protection and great practice spotting new types of placements.
Originally I heard from a lot of people that you need a bunch of the same size cams for the lead. When I first did it I thought this was true, I had 3/4 rack of dragons #1-6, a set of nuts, and a BD #8 Hex. I placed #5 and #6 Dragons first and for the last 20 feet I clipped the fixed cam and placed and #2 dragon. I ran it out around 30-40 feet.

When going for the repeat I discovered a larger diversity of placements. I had a full set of dragons #00-#6; #0, #0.5, and #3 Helium Friend; A set of nuts; and the #8 BD Hex. I Had about 10-12 placements this time instead of 3, There were multiple small cam and nut placements on the bottom thirty feet allowing for safely running out the next section about twelve feet. I then placed a hand sized cam likely dragon #4 or Helium #3, and then another hand sized cam after another 8 feet or so. On the roof there was a #6 Dragon Placement. After 10 feet of run out I placed #5 Dragon. Another 8ish feet there was a passive hex placement. Above that there was the fixed cam which I skipped, another 5 feet or and there was a bomber nut placement in the crack pockets to the left. Then I ran the last 15 feet out.
By Eli Peterson
From: Orem
Jul 5, 2015

First trad climb ever. It was a great first because it could be both face and crack climbed depending on your style

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