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Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blockhead T 
Capulin Classic T 
Circumlocution T 
Crap T 
Dark Crystal T 
Easy, Vicar! T 
Endgame T 
Fists of Fury T 
Free Pussy Riot T 
Frisky Widow T 
Garden Party T 
Gauntlet T 
Hallucinogen Roof T 
Hellbender T 
History Lesson T 
Holloween T 
Hollowlean T 
Killa Beez T 
Less Than Zero T 
Loctite T 
Monkey Spank T 
Monster T 
Nuclear Winter T 
Orb Weaver T 
Perk Up T 
Perk-ocet T 
Perkolater T 
Physical T 
Pinch Point T 
Pinky Mice T 
Pintrest T 
Ponderosa T 
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 
Restless T 
Rue Morgue Avenue T 
Rufie T 
Silver City T 
Slotterhouse T 
Squoze T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Taqueria T 
Tree Hugger T 
Unfinished T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed 2 T 
Unnamed 3 T 
Urban Fantasy T 
Whole Lota Rosie T 
Widdershins T 
Widowmaker T 
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Main Cliff  

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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...


The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There 

Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

51 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Dark Crystal   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Easy, Vicar!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Monkey Spank   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Squoze   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Loctite   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
History Lesson   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Widowmaker   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
Capulin Classic area.

Capulin Classic 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
Must have been climbed at some point; this is almost the definition of a classic climb.Optional belay at 50ft on a nice ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag). Sweet 10- OW to the big ledge, then hands to thin hands forever. Pinches down to fingers and then tips right near the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...

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