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Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blockhead T 
Capulin Classic T 
Circumlocution T 
Crap T 
Dark Crystal T 
Easy, Vicar! T 
Endgame T 
Fists of Fury T 
Free Pussy Riot T 
Frisky Widow T 
Garden Party T 
Gauntlet T 
Hallucinogen Roof T 
Hellbender T 
History Lesson T 
Holloween T 
Hollowlean T 
Killa Beez T 
Less Than Zero T 
Loctite T 
Monkey Spank T 
Monster T 
Nuclear Winter T 
Orb Weaver T 
Perk Up T 
Perk-ocet T 
Perkolater T 
Physical T 
Pinch Point T 
Pinky Mice T 
Pintrest T 
Ponderosa T 
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 
Restless T 
Rue Morgue Avenue T 
Rufie T 
Silver City T 
Slotterhouse T 
Squoze T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Taqueria T 
Tree Hugger T 
Unfinished T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed 2 T 
Unnamed 3 T 
Urban Fantasy T 
Whole Lota Rosie T 
Widdershins T 
Widowmaker T 

Main Cliff  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...

Description 

The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There 

Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.

Climbing Season

Traffic By Month

51 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',19],['5.11',24],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Dark Crystal   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Easy, Vicar!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Monkey Spank   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Squoze   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Widowmaker   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
Steve on the FA, before Las Conchas.

Hellbender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
Fingers to fat fingers to thin hands to a very short OW at the top. FA occurred in a rainstorm, and fingers liebacking on wet rock is a lot like trying to hold on to a hellbender. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall.
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area. The most obvious line in the photo has anchors but hasn't been climbed clean yet.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...

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