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Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blockhead T 
Capulin Classic T 
Circumlocution T 
Crap T 
Dark Crystal T 
Easy, Vicar! T 
Endgame T 
Fergus T 
Fists of Fury T 
Free Pussy Riot T 
Frisky Widow T 
Garden Party T 
Gauntlet T 
Hallucinogen Roof T 
Hellbender T 
History Lesson T 
Holloween T 
Hollowlean T 
Killa Beez T 
Less Than Zero T 
Loctite T 
Monkey Spank T 
Monster T 
Nuclear Winter T 
Orb Weaver T 
Perk Up T 
Perk-ocet T 
Perkolater T 
Physical T 
Pinch Point T 
Pinky Mice T 
Pintrest T 
Ponderosa T 
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 
Restless T 
Rue Morgue Avenue T 
Rufie T 
Silver City T 
Slotterhouse T 
Squoze T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Taqueria T 
Tree Hugger T 
Unfinished T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed 2 T 
Unnamed 3 T 
Urban Fantasy T 
Whole Lota Rosie T 
Widdershins T 
Widowmaker T 

Main Cliff  

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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
This Afternoon

79° | 57°

79° | 57°

78° | 58°

79° | 57°

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BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...


The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There 

Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.

Climbing Season

For the Capulin Canyon area.

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

52 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Dark Crystal   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Easy, Vicar!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Monkey Spank   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Squoze   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Loctite   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
History Lesson   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Widowmaker   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
Widowmaker rockfall aftermath. Kinda spooky. April...

Widowmaker 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
This route stacks up against the best anywhere and it will challenge every one of your crack climbing skills. Had a huge bridge/block spanning the chimney; the Widomaker. The many-ton Widowmaker block fell out of the chimney in the winter of 10/11. Head up towards the big roof; step left and clip two bolts, climbing on the aręte. Tip into the corner. Tips to fingers to hands to a fist crack to the roof. Over the roof a 20 ft 6” crack takes you to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...

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