Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blockhead T 
Capulin Classic T 
Circumlocution T 
Crap T 
Dark Crystal T 
Easy, Vicar! T 
Endgame T 
Fergus T 
Fists of Fury T 
Free Pussy Riot T 
Frisky Widow T 
Garden Party T 
Gauntlet T 
Hallucinogen Roof T 
Hellbender T 
History Lesson T 
Holloween T 
Hollowlean T 
Killa Beez T 
Less Than Zero T 
Lightning Road T 
Loctite T 
Monkey Spank T 
Monster T 
Nuclear Winter T 
Orb Weaver T 
Perk Up T 
Perk-ocet T 
Perkolater T 
Physical T 
Pinch Point T 
Pinky Mice T 
Pintrest T 
Ponderosa T 
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 
Restless T 
Rue Morgue Avenue T 
Rufie T 
Silver City T 
Slotterhouse T 
Squoze T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Taqueria T 
Tree Hugger T 
Unfinished T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed 2 T 
Unnamed 3 T 
Urban Fantasy T 
Whole Lota Rosie T 
Widdershins T 
Widowmaker T 
Witchcraft and Widgetry T 

Main Cliff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.77557, -106.37484 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,108
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Overview showing Stairway to Heaven, Hellbender, a...

Description 

The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There 

Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.

Climbing Season

For the Capulin Canyon area.

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

54 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',19],['5.11',25],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Cliff:
Tree Hugger   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Easy, Vicar!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Sticky Fingers   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Loctite   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
History Lesson   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh reaching the end of the lightning bolt crack ...

Lightning Road 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
Lightning Road follows the obvious splitter on the right hand face of the Hellbender dihedral. The crack appears to terminate partway up the west face of the dihedral, but in fact it keeps going to a ledge. Important! The route is 215 feet to the ground. If you have a 60M rope, scramble to the large ledge up about 15 feet and belay from there (4th class). From the ledge, you can climb the left Hellbender start (10+ fingers) or the right start, which is a 5.7 handcrack. Both go to the base of the...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...
BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.

Comments on Main Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!