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REI Community
Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blockhead T 
Capulin Classic T 
Circumlocution T 
Crap T 
Dark Crystal T 
Easy, Vicar! T 
Endgame T 
Fergus T 
Fists of Fury T 
Free Pussy Riot T 
Frisky Widow T 
Garden Party T 
Gauntlet T 
Hallucinogen Roof T 
Hellbender T 
History Lesson T 
Holloween T 
Hollowlean T 
Killa Beez T 
Less Than Zero T 
Lightning Road T 
Loctite T 
Monkey Spank T 
Monster T 
Nuclear Winter T 
Orb Weaver T 
Perk Up T 
Perk-ocet T 
Perkolater T 
Physical T 
Pinch Point T 
Pinky Mice T 
Pintrest T 
Ponderosa T 
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 
Restless T 
Rue Morgue Avenue T 
Rufie T 
Silver City T 
Slotterhouse T 
Squoze T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Taqueria T 
Tree Hugger T 
Unfinished T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed 2 T 
Unnamed 3 T 
Urban Fantasy T 
Whole Lota Rosie T 
Widdershins T 
Widowmaker T 
Witchcraft and Widgetry T 

Main Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Overview showing Stairway to Heaven, Hellbender, a...

Description 

The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There 

Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.

Climbing Season

For the Capulin Canyon area.

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

54 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',19],['5.11',25],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Cliff:
Tree Hugger   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Dark Crystal   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   
Easy, Vicar!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Holloween   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   
Blockhead   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Monkey Spank   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Squoze   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Monster   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Sticky Fingers   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
History Lesson   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Loctite   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Widowmaker   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve on the FA, before Las Conchas.

Hellbender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
Fingers to fat fingers to thin hands to a very short OW at the top. FA occurred in a rainstorm, and fingers liebacking on wet rock is a lot like trying to hold on to a hellbender. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...
BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.

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