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The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.
Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.
51 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff:
Dark Crystal 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 70'
Easy, Vicar! 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Monkey Spank 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Physical 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Squoze 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Hellbender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Frisky Widow 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Capulin Classic 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Widowmaker 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Featured Route For Main Cliff
Widowmaker 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
This route stacks up against the best anywhere and it will challenge every one of your crack climbing skills. Had a huge bridge/block spanning the chimney; the Widomaker. The many-ton Widowmaker block fell out of the chimney in the winter of 10/11. Head up towards the big roof; step left and clip two bolts, climbing on the aręte. Tip into the corner. Tips to fingers to hands to a fist crack to the roof. Over the roof a 20 ft 6” crack takes you to the anchors. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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