| Main Cliff Right |
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Mikey Korek sails through the upper moves of get i...
Description ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant. Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes. Main Cliff Right is a small off shoot of main cliff that holds a good variety of climbing from 5.12 sport routes like Flawless Victory (5.12d) to moderate multipitch trad like White Toad (5.7). And a bunch of stuff in between. Also once established on the upper ledge there are many more routes available. You can gain this ledge via Charity Case (5.9) or a moderate trad route to the right of that. Or even scrambling/traversing easily from the Main Cliff main area. From the ledge you can get to Wendell's Route (airy 5.6 trad) or a couple of super exposed 5.11s.
Getting There Follow signs from the small parking lot toward Main Cliff. Soon after stepping over a log across the trail with steps cut in to it look to your right for the harder steep climbs and a little further along for the more moderate trad routes starting in a corner.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Cliff Right:
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Featured Route For Main Cliff Right
Get It On 5.12c/d NH : Rumney : Main Cliff Right
A stout little route that will get your tendons working right off the ground, Get It On is known to be burly but a little technique would certainly make it a bit more reasonable.Stick clip the first or second bolt and use a couple good holds to establish your self on the route. Enjoy the good holds because they run out quickly. Puzzle out a sequence from the many crimps above. Looks like there are many options but they are all quite hard, this is the meat of the climb for sure. A final long move... [more] Browse More Classics in NH
BETA PHOTO: the new and improved right side of Main Cliff map....
| Ratty tat tat (taken down from above Freebird...
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| Comments on Main Cliff Right |
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By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Nov 18, 2011
| In the Old Rumney guide book there are two Routes listed that did not make it into the new guide. I was wondering if people had any insight into either of them. The First one being 'Cherry Pie' listed as a 5.8, it is described as a link-up of 'Wendell's' and 'Rock Du Jours' using a corner crack system. The second on being 'The Prow' listed as 5.9 it says climb the hand crack on 'Free Bird' then traverse into the top of 'White Toad'. |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Nov 18, 2011
| I was surprised that Ward left Cherry Pie out of the new book. It runs out a pretty obvious and cool feature, the giant undercling flake that links in to Rock du Jour mid way through the second pitch. It looked like it would take a bunch of fairly large cams. The new belay anchor and starting bolts of Stairway to Heaven would facilitate leading it now. Being an old route that has lain fallow, it probably needs a good cleaning, but is worth it. The Prow area has been fairly run over with new routes, but it is worth doing for a change by those who like to plug gear and have an adventure. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 18, 2011
| yeah, ive done cherry pie but havent done the prow... ill have to remember to do that :) cherry pie is worth doing for sure! |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Nov 19, 2011
| Awesome I will investigate both more in-depth! Lee would you want to add 'Cherry Pie' by any chance? |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 20, 2011
| sure matt... im surprized i hadnt done that yet.... its a fun climb... |
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