ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant.
Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes.
Main Cliff Right is a small off shoot of main cliff that holds a good variety of climbing from 5.12 sport routes like Flawless Victory (5.12d) to moderate multipitch trad like White Toad (5.7). And a bunch of stuff in between.
Also once established on the upper ledge there are many more routes available. You can gain this ledge via Charity Case (5.9) or a moderate trad route to the right of that. Or even scrambling/traversing easily from the Main Cliff main area. From the ledge you can get to Wendell's Route (airy 5.6 trad) or a couple of super exposed 5.11s.
Follow signs from the small parking lot toward Main Cliff. Soon after stepping over a log across the trail with steps cut in to it look to your right for the harder steep climbs and a little further along for the more moderate trad routes starting in a corner.
This route is just plain FUN!!! It is playful and challenging and exposed and if you climb at this level and aren't wicked short (some pretty big moves) just get out there and do it. This is the most fun route on the right side of the cliff.Pitch 1: Climb Charity Case (5.9 and fun in it's own right) to the anchor and belay.Pitch 2: Climb up and slightly right on moderate climbing following bolts till the rock steepens and the holds thin a little. Make heroic moves up the inverted section above ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
In the Old Rumney guide book there are two Routes listed that did not make it into the new guide. I was wondering if people had any insight into either of them.
The First one being 'Cherry Pie' listed as a 5.8, it is described as a link-up of 'Wendell's' and 'Rock Du Jours' using a corner crack system.
The second on being 'The Prow' listed as 5.9 it says climb the hand crack on 'Free Bird' then traverse into the top of 'White Toad'.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Nov 18, 2011
I was surprised that Ward left Cherry Pie out of the new book. It runs out a pretty obvious and cool feature, the giant undercling flake that links in to Rock du Jour mid way through the second pitch. It looked like it would take a bunch of fairly large cams. The new belay anchor and starting bolts of Stairway to Heaven would facilitate leading it now. Being an old route that has lain fallow, it probably needs a good cleaning, but is worth it.
The Prow area has been fairly run over with new routes, but it is worth doing for a change by those who like to plug gear and have an adventure.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 18, 2011
yeah, ive done cherry pie but havent done the prow... ill have to remember to do that :) cherry pie is worth doing for sure!
Is there any way to get to the third pitch of White Toad from the big ledge below Freebird without climbing any big runouts or trad routes?
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Aug 19, 2013
The second pitch of Charity Toad is technically "runout", but it is basically traversing across ledges and buckets. It shouldn't be any problem unless your second was inexperienced with being up 100 feet so they were completely wigged out, in which case they wouldn't be having fun on the 3rd pitch either. You would have to be practically unconscious to fall off there. Bring runners and you can use various bolts on the way across, like the first one of High Roller
I've taken a look at the said short pitch and it looks quite chill. We were up there to do High Roller and Stairway to Heaven and could see most of this "P2" of Charity Toad. Smitty had a good suggestion of linking Charity Case with this "P2" to the belay anchors for P3 of Charity Toad. Sounds rather pleasant.
Okay thanks! Is this pitch two of charity-toad an established route or more of a linkup? And is it more or less runout than the vegetated gully on the right end of iron man that takes you to the ledge?