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Main Canyon

Select Route:
Drug Test S 
Drugs Are Nice S 
Golden Egg, The T,S 
Gunks Pump S 
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 
Jesus Liquid S 
Lunge for Jesus S 
Prince of Peace S 
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream S 
Weave Your Spell S 
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? S 
Witches' Tit S 
Woof S 

Main Canyon Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 30, 1999
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William sending Witches' Tit 2nd or 3rd try. Amazi...


The Main Canyon at Witches Canyon hosts over 50 routes all between 30 and 50 ft in height. Climbing starts shortly past the parking area with each of the side canyons hosting numerous routes. The Main Canyon is well forested and the shade afforded can be welcome when things are really cooking in Penitente. Difficulty in the Main Canyon spans the gamut from 5.8 to 5.13 and is usually on the fine grained tuffa found in Penitente itself. Scattered within the sport routes are numerous trad cracks, so bringing the rack is often a good option. Route numbering follows Bob D'Antonio's guide and begins with "Drug Test" as # 9 and follows sequentially up the canyon.

Getting There 

About 100 yards past Lung for Jesus is a parking area with a small canyon on the right and the main canyon straight ahead. Several small drainages enter the main canyon from the right.

Climbing Season

For the Witches' Canyon area.

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Canyon:
The Golden Egg   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Drugs Are Nice   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Drug Test   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour?   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Gunks Pump   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Lunge for Jesus   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Witches' Tit   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Canyon

Featured Route For Main Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: William sending Witches' Tit 2nd or 3rd try. Amazi...

Witches' Tit 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Main Canyon
The route furthest right when facing the wall. Start in a small, right-facing corner up to the bulging wall. Do a cool, powerful move off pockets to a jug. Clip, shake, then undercling, crimp, and highstep past one more bolt to a lone lowering hook. It is slightly more difficult than its neighbor "Weave Your Spell" but much more straightforward IMHO. Quality....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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