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 ADVANCED
Main Area

Select Route:
300 S 
Direct Route, The T 
Gutterball T,S,TR 
Intro Slab S 
Kingpin S,TR 
Never Again T 
Velvet Jones T 

Main Area  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.6722, -113.0375 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,832
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ZachBradford on May 23, 2009
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: _E Kingpin 5.8+
Slab climbing on good edges past ...

Description 

The main area contains most of the climbs at the bowling alley. Excellent area if you are looking for a quick fix close to town. This area is the first one to dry in the spring.

Soft Rock Warning: Sandstone is compressed sediment and can become brittle when wet. Please wait at least 24 hours after a rainstorm before climbing in this area.


Getting There 

Drive up Cedar canyon approximately one mile, park at the pull off on the north side of the street. You will be across from the foot bridge that spans the river. The Cliffs will be to you immediate west follow the obvious path 50 yards up the hill to the base of kingpin.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

7 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Main Area:
The Direct Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Velvet Jones   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Browse More Classics in Main Area

Featured Route For Main Area
Rob on Velvet Jones at the first gear placement

Velvet Jones 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  UT : Cedar City : ... : Main Area
P1-The climb starts off at about 5.7 clipping a few bolts leading to the corner. After the first step where a bolt ladder (My Generation) breaks out right, stay in the corner the crux is about 2/3 up the pitch where it steepens up.( I remember liebacking) and ends at a good ledge and anchor. 5.9+P2- is quite a bit easier and stays in the corner for about 65 feet to the top of the wall. 5.6-ish This route was probably done long ago. When TDA first walked up there he found a couple of soft iron p...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Main Area Slideshow Add Photo
_A “300” 5.11b/c <br />Follows 6 bolts trending left to chain anchor. Friction crux at the last bolt may leave you perplexed. <br />(45’) <br />FA: Peter Stroker <br /> <br />_B My Generation 5.11 or A2 <br />First three bolts of C then follow 3 bolts up and left place gear in small crack with one bolt mid crack then gear to 2 bolt anchor with webbing. <br />(75’) <br />(Fifth bolt needs to be replaced, webbing looks old.) <br />FA: Peter Stroker 96 <br />FFA: Alder Tratford 98 <br /> <br />_C Velvet Jones  5.10a or C1 <br />Follows 3 bolts up and right then place gear up to 2 bolt webbing anchor. <br />(75’) <br />(Old webbing) <br />FA: Peter Stroker <br />FFA: Durf and Peter Stroker <br />
BETA PHOTO: _A “300” 5.11b/c
Follows 6 bolts trending left to ...
_D Gutterball  5.10 b/c <br />Found just left of the main wall. Climb up using steep ledge through edges past 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. <br />(40’) <br />F.A. Sock Monkey, Alder Tratford 1998 <br /> <br />Extension 5.11a R <br />From the anchors traverse left into a sandy “gutter”, finishing on chains for kingpin. <br />
BETA PHOTO: _D Gutterball 5.10 b/c
Found just left of the mai...
Climb the open book to the right of kingpin.  The first pitch lie backs the slabby dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor. Second pitch is steeper with the crux near the end of the route.  Anchors for second pitch are far left. <br />2 pitches (120’) <br />F.A. Unknown <br />
BETA PHOTO: Climb the open book to the right of kingpin. The ...

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