This is an exciting and exposed roof traverse with a fun roof pull on hero holds. Begin in the V-notch gully or just to the right. Continue up the arete until you are in a corner capped by a small roof, and under the roof is a thin crack. You should be above the large roof, but crunched in the corner below the small roof to start the traverse. Traverse right under the small roof following the major footholds and often hidden hands (crux). It is easy to get suckered into a bad spot if you aren't following the feet.
Continue traversing and placing small gear until the thin crack turns into a jug hand about 10' above the stance. To start the roof pull you should be in a ok stance at a small right facing corner/groove. Plug gear here and fire straight up through the jug hands. Make a few more moves up horizontals trending right slightly. Pull over the top and drop into a hole for a gear belay.
The real crux may be route and hold finding.
As you enter the upper tier's landing, continue straight and up the talus. Follow the talus under the roof and to the obvious v-gully that splits the two walls of the upper tier. Begin on either side of the v-gully. To find the rappel anchors, turn around from the belay and face north. Move to the cliff face in the direction of the viaduct. From here, scramble down and three sets of rap anchors can be seen. The easiest to reach from atop is the ones above Edge of a Dream, which are SS ring anchors. Avoid the old rusty set. A single 60m will get you up and down.
Single rack TCU's to #3 or #4 camalot with several shoulder slings. A single #3 or #4 is mandatory.
BETA PHOTO: The red line follows the approximate path, the res...
|By Mike Holley|
From: Boone, NC
Oct 27, 2011
A MUST do at the upper tier!! Great route that offers a bit more of a challenge after you have climbed "Edge" and "Lost at Sea" but similarly rewards with remarkable exposure and fun mystery moves. Holds appear from nowhere as the low feet lead you further and further out across the roof. Plenty of good balance and stretch arm strong moves across the traverse. Pulling the roof is unreal, super exposure while pulling on massive holds is nothing but fun!
Decent gear along the way, pulling the V-notch in the beginning is a little unprotected but good gear awaits you the higher you go (be creative). Remember to protect the traverse well, if not for your own piece of mind, but for your second because this can be a heady climb to follow due to the massive traverse. Its a gear anchor at the top (found bomber placements for small C3's), so don't forget to bring extra.
I can't tell in the Beta photo if the climber is pulling the first roof crack or the second, but if you traverse about 3/4's of the way along the huge roof feature and pull the second obvious weakness the climbing is much easier. I want to say I heard the first roof crack is a 10/11 variation, who knows?!
|By freddie hutch|
May 1, 2012
20 years of climbing at ship rock and got on this one for the first time yesterday. Fun and freaky moves heading out right, with a steep jug top out. Short and sweet. And as always the approach to the upper tier is so lord of the rings that it's worth the hike regardless of what you climb up there. Recommended!