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Begin 20 feet right of Maiden Heaven at a small lieback/undercling flake. Climb the slab past 5 bolts up to a corner (#2 camalot).
From here you can end the pitch at a ledge a bit higher (1 to 3 inch CDs for an anchor/TR rig) and downclimb off to the right (5.0) -or- traverse up and left from the start of the corner (5.7 PG ) to a sixth bolt, then climb up and left following the arete, clipping the final 4 bolts of Maiden Heaven.
This makes for a great, long (150 ft) slab pitch with ten bolts total (gear anchor).
A short downclimb leads to a tree you can rap from (80 ft.)
Starts 20 feet right of Maiden Heaven.
10 bolts, 1 to 3 inch CDs
Aug 21, 2011
this is a really fun route. it looks like you could just run up the initial slab, but it becomes much harder and better than it looks from below. do the traverse to the other route and finish up clipping more bolts. real, honest, good fun... imho...
By J Smith
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nice route. Mostly 5.9 or easier climbing with a short crux section on smears near the 4th bolt. Gear or some webbing/cord through a constriction for the anchor - it would be difficult to set up a TR on this route. Be prepared to leave some slingage around the tree to rap, sometimes it disappears.