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Maiden Gully

Select Route:
Beer, Pizza and a 3 Foot Toothless Girl 
creamy 
dreamy 
Maiden, The 
Sledgehammer 

Maiden Gully Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 2,472
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB on Feb 4, 2011
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Linda working along the traversing seam of Creamy ...

  • East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    This is a boulder choked gully high on East Mountain above and right of the end of Comanche Canyon. The area has a goof bit of diversity, from easy to about V8 and short to quite tall. Most problems in this area are going to be well shaded and sheltered from the wind.

    Classics include the highball, The Maiden and the head height roof with a little of everything, Beer Pizza and a Three Foot Toothless Girl.

    Getting There 

    You can either get here by hiking up slabs from Comanche Canyon and left from the Aircraft Carrier or over the top from Moonshine Roof.

    Climbing Season

    For the East Mountain area.

    Weather station 8.1 miles from here

    5 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Maiden Gully

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maiden Gully:
    The Maiden   V0 4     Boulder, 35'   
    Beer, Pizza and a 3 Foot Toothless Girl   V6 7A     Boulder, 25'   
    Sledgehammer   V8 7B     Boulder   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maiden Gully

    Featured Route For Maiden Gully
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matching the sledgehammer pinch

    Sledgehammer V8 7B  TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : Maiden Gully
    Very unique and entertaining movement on an overhanging arete. If you enjoy pinches, heel hooks, compression, and flexing biceps, this climb hits the nail on the head.Start sitting, hugging the arete with a good right hand pinch and a pretty poor left hand pinch on the face. Make a lefthand move up to a slopey hueco and work into the opposing sidepull crimps. Clever technique should lead you to the marquee move maneuvering through the large, made to order, sledgehammer pinch. From here, span out...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

    Photos of Maiden Gully Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on the picturesque and great, Surf...
    Unknown climber on the picturesque and great, Surf...

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