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Alcohol Wall
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Mai Tai 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, Paul Ven Betten, Paul Obenheim, Sal Mamusia
Season: summer (shade all day)
Page Views: 2,265
Submitted By: kirra on Nov 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Mai Tai

Description 

Climb the polished corner just to the left of the Friendship Route. At the top go right to the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch of Friendship.


Photos of Mai Tai Slideshow Add Photo
Far climb - Great climb, although I top-roped with two ropes.
Far climb - Great climb, although I top-roped with...

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By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Oct 2, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

This pitch is an ultra classic and should not be missed!! A few bouldery moves get you up to a good stance below a small roof about 10 feet up. You can get good gear under the roof and a few good but small stoppers over the next ten feet. A bolt appears just when needed at about 25 feet. The crux is a very polished section of the corner where the crack becomes a seam. I placed a very good yellow C3 and a small stopper to protect the crux. The protection is at your feet when starting the hard moves so the move is a little scary and you are risking a moderate length fall by the time the hard stuff is over. There is a bomber lock in the corner past the smooth section, do whatever necessary to get it! I placed a great medium stopper in the finger lock. More tricky stemming passing another bolt gets you to the top of the main corner and one final bolt that protects the traverse right to the top of the friendship route. Some moderate runouts are encountered in the upper corner system. Rap with a single 70 or two 60's to the base of the Friendship route.
By Manjushri
Nov 19, 2007

The best route on the cliff in my opinion, excellent technical climbing with a distinct crux and good gear when you need it. Old school and awesome.
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 20, 2011

Best route on the Alcohol wall.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Apr 6, 2011

If you bring the right gear and put it in the correct places, this is not a run-out climb. (ironically true of any climb) For some reason, when there are fewer gear options, people start to think that it means a climb is runout...
By Jeff Gicklhorn
From: Reno, NV
Jun 2, 2012

Agree with everyone, definitely not R rated. Good climbing and great rock, I just wish that the crux was more than one move!
By -robin-
Oct 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Not runout with the right gear, small nuts and cams to 1", nothing bigger, very fun, memorable for sure!
By paulmadry
Apr 25, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

ditto. not runout at all. it's PG as long as you have small gear (double black-blue aliens or equivalent)