|1,908 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10+ [details]|
|FA: ||Richard Harrison, Paul Ven Betten, Paul Obenheim, Sal Mamusia|
|Season: ||summer (shade all day)|
|Submitted By: ||kirra on Nov 13, 2006|
Climb the polished corner just to the left of the Friendship Route. At the top go right to the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch of Friendship.
Far climb - Great climb, although I top-roped with...
|By Jeff G.|
From: Fort Collins
Oct 2, 2007
rating: 5.10+ PG13
This pitch is an ultra classic and should not be missed!! A few bouldery moves get you up to a good stance below a small roof about 10 feet up. You can get good gear under the roof and a few good but small stoppers over the next ten feet. A bolt appears just when needed at about 25 feet. The crux is a very polished section of the corner where the crack becomes a seam. I placed a very good yellow C3 and a small stopper to protect the crux. The protection is at your feet when starting the hard moves so the move is a little scary and you are risking a moderate length fall by the time the hard stuff is over. There is a bomber lock in the corner past the smooth section, do whatever necessary to get it! I placed a great medium stopper in the finger lock. More tricky stemming passing another bolt gets you to the top of the main corner and one final bolt that protects the traverse right to the top of the friendship route. Some moderate runouts are encountered in the upper corner system. Rap with a single 70 or two 60's to the base of the Friendship route.
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 19, 2007
The best route on the cliff in my opinion, excellent technical climbing with a distinct crux and good gear when you need it. Old school and awesome.
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Central Oregon
Apr 6, 2011
If you bring the right gear and put it in the correct places, this is not a run-out climb. (ironically true of any climb) For some reason, when there are fewer gear options, people start to think that it means a climb is runout...
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 16, 2011
Climbed this one today, very aesthetic climbing with a bold/heady feel the entire way up.
I have to agree with the others, not R rated at all. Maybe PG/PG13, but there is not any point on the climb where you could get seriously injured.
The crux has small gear below your feet, stopper/c3 or TCU protects it well. I took a 15 footer and the rock is sound.
|By Jeff Gicklhorn|
From: A Climbing Mecca Near You!
Jun 2, 2012
Agree with everyone, definitely not R rated. Good climbing and great rock, I just wish that the crux was more than one move!
Oct 17, 2012
Not runout with the right gear, small nuts and cams to 1", nothing bigger, very fun, memorable for sure!
Apr 25, 2013
ditto. not runout at all. it's PG as long as you have small gear (double black-blue aliens or equivalent)