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Magnum Force 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Dexter, Jay Smith, 1977.
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007
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Will Sicke on Magnum Force. The crack to his left...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the crack to the right of "Mainline".
Do the first moves of "Mainline", then move right, into the crack. The crux is above a small roof.


Protection 

Pro to 1.5"



Photos of Magnum Force Slideshow Add Photo
Will Sicke at the crux of Magnum Force.
Will Sicke at the crux of Magnum Force.
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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

I always felt the crux was the savage boulder problem (for 10b) at the very bottom....kinda like T-Wall, the "first 10 feet" don't seem to count...

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 4, 2007

Good route. It is a little crusty (but maybe because it's early in the season?) and my partner broke off a small dike while leading. Also, there is a very loose horn about 2/3 of the way up, just below the roof. It looked like it was rooted pretty well, but I don't think it would take too much to send it, bigger than a football. Take care. It is inviting, but easily avoided. I don't think it would change the grade if it gets trundled.

We didn't use any gear bigger than #1 camalot, doubles of small cams was nice. But, the anchor situation isn't the greatest, we used bigger cams for that up at the base of arctic breeze.

Opening boulder problem pretty delicate...

By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

That thing has always been crusty, Dave. I thought it was pretty hard too!

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 10, 2011

no doubt! Just did it again... still crusty and that bouldery start is still vicious. Got a cramp in my neck right after I did the mantle!

By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

This thing would be great if it was climbed/cleaned up more. Some gardening may be required. Boulder problem is tough, protects well with a blue and purp TCUs.