Magnum Force 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Greg Dexter, Jay Smith, 1977. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007 |
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Will Sicke on Magnum Force. The crack to his left...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311.
Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map
Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is the crack to the right of "Mainline".
Do the first moves of "Mainline", then move right, into the crack. The crux is above a small roof.
Protection Pro to 1.5"
Will Sicke at the crux of Magnum Force.
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By 426
Mar 8, 2007
| I always felt the crux was the savage boulder problem (for 10b) at the very bottom....kinda like T-Wall, the "first 10 feet" don't seem to count... |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 4, 2007
| Good route. It is a little crusty (but maybe because it's early in the season?) and my partner broke off a small dike while leading. Also, there is a very loose horn about 2/3 of the way up, just below the roof. It looked like it was rooted pretty well, but I don't think it would take too much to send it, bigger than a football. Take care. It is inviting, but easily avoided. I don't think it would change the grade if it gets trundled.
We didn't use any gear bigger than #1 camalot, doubles of small cams was nice. But, the anchor situation isn't the greatest, we used bigger cams for that up at the base of arctic breeze.
Opening boulder problem pretty delicate... |
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010
| That thing has always been crusty, Dave. I thought it was pretty hard too! |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 10, 2011
| no doubt! Just did it again... still crusty and that bouldery start is still vicious. Got a cramp in my neck right after I did the mantle! |
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