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Magnum cum Masochist 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 234
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
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Description 

One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, but not one of the best, even for the grade. Climb up the varnished face about 10 feet, then pull onto a large ledge below a prominent spray-painted "peace sign." There is a bolt at the lip of the ledge, but I would recommend skipping it and just clipping the 2nd from a secure stance (avoids rope drag). From the ledge, climb the vertical face above on large incut edges. The crux is at the 3rd bolt, and can be potentially challenging to some. The crux can be avoided by staying well right of the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Climbed this way, the route probably goes at 5.9.
The anchor, while not far from the lip, can be tough to equalize well; bring some extra biners, slings, and ingenuity.


Location 

The first boltline right of "Not Suitable." Look for the peace sign graffito about 10 feet up.
Lower off or walk off; ropes are hard to pull if you rap off.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor



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By morrison
Nov 13, 2008

killer climb, lot of fun, crux is right in the middle and is the reason for the 10a rating, super fun lead