Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Wicked Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cryptic Egyptian S 
F.U.C.K S 
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 
Get Shorty S 
Magnetar S 
Planet X S 
Sexy Beast S 
Shades S 
Slice of Life S 
Tombraider S 
Zulu S 

Magnetar 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 448
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Oct 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A magnetar is a type of neutron star with an extremely powerful magnetic field.

Steep, chossy rock with awkward sidepulls and harder-than-they-look vertical pods leads to an extended boulder problem on decent edges and pockets ending below better rock and the first crux. Strangely oriented holds bring you through a shallow corner and a couple of shouldery moves gets you to a good resting flake. Some flowy moves on easier terrain get you to the second crux which involves a smooth, right-trending seam over a small roof that leads to better holds and a good kneebar. With gravity tugging at you, pinch a large slopey horn, throw a kneebar next to your hand and work over the roof on some enhanced pockets until you reach better holds that lead to the chains.

Two kneepads are helpful on this one.

Location 

This is right of Slice of Life. Look for a small cave at the base of the route.

Protection 

Quickdraws. The anchors have biners. You might want two kneepads. A right one is more important.


Comments on Magnetar Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -