Maginot Line is a climb that unfolds with each move. Each moves links with the next in a way that keeps you thinking and on your toes. It is truly a classic with great climbing in a great location.
Maginot Line climbs the huge left facing corner that is located to the right of Little Corner. It will be marked by a large pine at the base and another pine about 20 feet up the route.
This route can be done in 3 or 4 pitches. P1 - climb the dihedral to a comfy belay below a chockstone. P2 - continue up the dihedral following the path of least resistance...angle right to an arete and up through a block/fingercrack to an overhang. Pull the overhang and set a belay on another great ledge. (or split this pitch into two.) P3 - easy climbing up the dihedral leads to the top.
This is a classic line. I think I've climbed it three times in the past year and plan on climbing it at least a couple times this year. I wrote a brief trip report after my first time here. OnTheSharpEnd.com - Maginot Line
Pitch 1 is longer than you think. Said to be 90 feet in some guides, with reference to a ledge for belay under a chockstone. There are multiple chockstones in the dihedral along the way where an anchor is possible, but the best ledge is up and right. You can follow the dihedral up and see it, or climb an exposed and unprotected face on the right just under it. Great holds, but no pro. P2 is short (50 ft) and could be combined with P1, but rope drag could be a problem. No description of P3 is necessary, beyond saying that it's the best pitch of the route with plenty of pro at the roof. P4 a long scramble to the top.
Pitch 3 doesn't go directly up the crack. You step right 15-20 feet on a little ledge and finish the pitch by climbing a face with lots of horizontals. The guide seems to want you to "trend Right" but you actually go sharply right well below the overhang. We got corn-fused and set up an extra belay on the little ledge to figure things out. 5 pitches instead of 3-4 (...doh!). Great climb, good pro throughout.
Classic Short off Route! Definitely an aesthetic climb even if its not the most physically demanding. Linked pitch one and two (easily done and well worth it) and finished out the original sequence. Pitch three is gorgeous with great exposure and solid pro!
Like many of the routes out at Short Off, keep an eye open for loose rock!
By Ryan Williams Administrator From: London (sort of) Oct 21, 2011 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
This was the first route I did at Shortoff, back when I had 7 cams and a set of nuts. Really fun route... solid rock, sustained climbing, comfy belays. Link the first two pitches... and I've been told you can link the last two w/ a 70.
Anyone tried going straight up through the overhanging crack on P3 rather than dodging out right? Difficulty, gear? I was tempted but a) it wasn't my pitch to lead and b) I wasn't sure how the pro was and didn't want to talk my partner into anything too sketchy.
Can link 1&2 then 2&3 into a 2-pitch route with lots of runners. Fantastic moderate!
By Ezra Ellis Oct 26, 2012 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b PG13
Great route, Probably want a 4 and a 5 camalot (new sizes) for the first pitch. crux is the first pitch imo.
Zoo view is the best 5.7 in NC however...:)
By chris mcguigan From: belmont, nc Mar 16, 2013 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
2 long pitches; for me the crux was the first half of the climb thought provoking movement in and out of the crack. The upper section moving right onto the face and over the bulge was 4 star terrifically fun climbing.
Absolutely stellar line: full-value climbing and exposure for a 5.7. We didn't use anything bigger than a #3. I highly recommend linking P1 and P2 (can be done with a 60m) especially if you're trying to move fast. Use LOTS of long runners for this. Each of the first 3 pitches has a great "hero move" with stemming and jug hauls over wicked exposure. Enjoy!
we did it in 2 pitches with a 70, but I think you could pull it off in 2 with a 60 as well. Absolute classic.
By b.t.miller From: Charlotte, NC Aug 18, 2014 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Esperanza's thought of being able to do this climb in two long pitches with a 60m is correct. We linked P1 and P2 into one long pitch. Maybe 150-160'. We linked P3 and P4 as well with maybe 3-4 meters of a 60m rope left to spare.
We tried hard to manage rope drag with long slings (60cm and 120cm slings) but that did little to cut down on rope drag. Pretty stifling at the end of each long pitch.