Magical Mystery Tour
||Trad, 7 pitches, 800'
|Original: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Cox, Tobin Sorenson, Dave Evans, Mike Graham & Jim Wilson, 1973 FFA: M. Cox and Darrell Hensel, 1976, P2 Var.: B. Gaines & C. Peterson, 8/94|
|Page Views: ||48|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Aug 8, 2013|
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Another obscurity in plain sight, this climbs the steep slab just left of Edgehogs
and despite the "R" rating is more invigorating than dangerous except for some loose blocks on the 4th pitch.
P1) Start up a right-facing corner system then move left onto a slanting ramp which leads to sporty face with spaced protection which leads to a bolted belay atop a small ledge. (5.9 R)
P2) The crux pitch which tackles a thin seam with some fixed pins (micro-wires are helpful to supplement the fixed gear) and then moves sharply left to the left edge of a small roof system before cutting back right past a bolt to gain a two bolt semi-hanging belay. Note: There is a more direct variation (5.11a) which straightens out the line by climbing up past a bolt and then over the roof to join the regular version at the bolt. (5.11c)
P3) Straight into it off the belay to gain some fixed pins and then a bolt before heading up and right on somewhat dirty friction moves, with the hardest moves just before another bolt, (if you blow it here you'll go for a clean 40 footer) then move up and left into a shallow right-facing corner to reach another bolted belay. (5.10d PG/R)
P4) Romp up the easy right-facing corner system, taking care not to dislodge the loose blocks, and gain another bolted belay. (5.7 R)
P5) A testy pitch which moves up and left slightly to a suddenly very exposed position before tackling twin cracks (5.10) with tricky and intermittent protection to a stance belay on gear. Be advised that some decent protection can be found on this pitch but it tends to be spaced and you will still have to hang out to wiggle it in. (5.10 R)
P6) Up and left off the belay to skirt a roof on it's left side then back right along cracks to a belay on gear. (5.10a)
P7) A right-facing corner then weave you way through the usual Tahquitz overlaps, which appear harder than they actually are, and finish with progressively easier climbing. (5.8)
A long and somewhat serious route but for those climbing at the grade the runout portions are on easier terrain and serve only to enhance a memorable climb.
bolts, gear to 2.5" including micro-wires, many slings can be helpful
Jun 27, 2014
I remember this thing being pretty good. A nice line, a little run, but as Chris states there is decent gear when needed. ...and lots of long runners are key.
Nov 12, 2014
I got onto this from The Glup, but P5 looked horrible so I bailed right, not sure if I was looking the right pitch, it was totally covered in lichen and I didn't see much for gear.