Magical Mystery Tour
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Outstanding low-angle knob climbing. Quite runout, but solid feeling. Very worth doing, especially on your way down after a larger Fairview route.
P1- Wander your way up a small right-facing corner, placing a couple of small pieces, and eventually pull into the large black streak and begin climbing in a "sea of knobs", clipping one or two bolts along the way. End at a 2-bolt anchor that looks like it'll be jingus but actually has one good bolt. 5.7, 70m.
P2- Continue climbing up the amazing knobs in the black streak, clipping 2 bolts. End at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8
P3- Climb knobs on an unprotected ever slabbing face to the top. 5.4
The largest black streak on the west face. Encountered after walking a ways right from the Great Pumpkin.
Some medium gear for the first pitch corner, then draws.
Belay at the top of the long first pitch.
Not much to look at but ... picture was taken from...
|Comments on Magical Mystery Tour
|By Bryan G|
Oct 3, 2011
If you're looking for mellow but runout knob climbing, then this is the route for you. The bolts are good.
Viewed from below the route appears to follow a prominent black streak. Yet looking down on the same pitch from above, it suddenly appears as a white streak. It's magical and mysterious...
|By Toby B|
Feb 6, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X
I just about shat myself watching my partner lead this in one of my first few days at Tuolumne. I realize that Tuolumne is known for its runouts but to give this route anything other than X is misleading. There are a few gear placements on the first pitch, but you're still facing 50+ feet of climbing where a fall would mean certain death.
For those of you who (unlike me) are well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs I'm sure the climbing is mellow. But the protection definitely deserves an X.
|By Benjamin Chapman|
From: Small Town, USA
Oct 15, 2012
Nick....what is an unprotected ever slabbing face?
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Oct 24, 2012
Benjamin- it's an unprotected face that becomes slabbier and slabbier... obviously :).
Toby- Rs and Xs become hard to distinguish in Tuolumne. I find it really surprising that a self-admitted climber not "well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs" would attempt this route! Good on you for pulling it off.
There are plenty of better protected Meadows routes to learn these skills on. Head to Low Profile Dome and check out Golfer's Route and Darth Vader's Revenge. Also check out the climbs on the left side Medlicott (Excellent, Smithers and the other one nearby whose name escapes me) are better protected intros. Sorry if my description of this route mislead you at all.
|By Timbo Stillinger|
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
"A little runout but worth climbing in a sea of knobs"
My humble experience on P2 from a "5.10" trad climber:
Pitch two is the money pitch. Steep enough to require care and technical precision, but just slabby enough to guarantee a full skid if you pop.... Very thought provoking. 170feet, continuos 5.8 knob climbing, and only two bolts both with 80+ foot run outs after each into vast 5.8 knob land; "a sea of knobs". I led up half the second pitch, girth hitched a knob, moved up a few feet and my sling just slides right off the knob... I made the mistake of looking down at the 60 feet of grit 3 sandpaper between me and the bolt and the next 60 feet of sharp knobs below that. My mental duct-tape was gone and I humbly, carefully, and frighteningly down climbed back to the belay and let my partner take the reigns. He floated up the pitch.
You should give it a look the next time your there, its a mental masterpiece.
|By Bill Lawry|
From: New Mexico
Aug 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R
My partner and I aren't ones to climb such "Tuolumne R" routes. And we wouldn't have climbed this one except for a hysterical mistake in gathering beta - had a DIFFERENT route's comments which spoke of lots of pro and to bring a 4 inch piece to protect the bulge - NOT! Had about four times as much of a rack as was needed.
Timbo Stillinger's comment is worthy to consider.