Magical Mystery Tour
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David Nebel leading near the top of 2nd pitch. We ...
Outstanding low-angle knob climbing. Quite runout, but solid feeling. Very worth doing, especially on your way down after a larger Fairview route.
P1- Wander your way up a small right-facing corner, placing a couple of small pieces, and eventually pull into the large black streak and begin climbing in a "sea of knobs", clipping one or two bolts along the way. End at a 2-bolt anchor that looks like it'll be jingus but actually has one good bolt. 5.7, 70m.
P2- Continue climbing up the amazing knobs in the black streak, clipping 2 bolts. End at a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8
P3- Climb knobs on an unprotected ever slabbing face to the top. 5.4
The largest black streak on the west face. Encountered after walking a ways right from the Great Pumpkin.
Some medium gear for the first pitch corner, then draws.
Belay at the top of the long first pitch.
|Comments on Magical Mystery Tour
|By Bryan G|
Oct 3, 2011
If you're looking for mellow but runout knob climbing, then this is the route for you. The bolts are good.
Viewed from below the route appears to follow a prominent black streak. Yet looking down on the same pitch from above, it suddenly appears as a white streak. It's magical and mysterious...
|By Toby B|
Feb 6, 2012
rating: 5.8 X
I just about shat myself watching my partner lead this in one of my first few days at Tuolumne. I realize that Tuolumne is known for its runouts but to give this route anything other than X is misleading. There are a few gear placements on the first pitch, but you're still facing 50+ feet of climbing where a fall would mean certain death.
For those of you who (unlike me) are well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs I'm sure the climbing is mellow. But the protection definitely deserves an X.
|By Benjamin Chapman|
Oct 15, 2012
Nick....what is an unprotected ever slabbing face?
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Oct 24, 2012
Benjamin- it's an unprotected face that becomes slabbier and slabbier... obviously :).
Toby- Rs and Xs become hard to distinguish in Tuolumne. I find it really surprising that a self-admitted climber not "well-versed in the way of climbing on nubs" would attempt this route! Good on you for pulling it off.
There are plenty of better protected Meadows routes to learn these skills on. Head to Low Profile Dome and check out Golfer's Route and Darth Vader's Revenge. Also check out the climbs on the left side Medlicott (Excellent, Smithers and the other one nearby whose name escapes me) are better protected intros. Sorry if my description of this route mislead you at all.