Magic Wand  5.11b/c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Erik Pohlman on Dec 20, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Face climbing through the first roof, pulling left through the second roof. Then up on more vertical face climbing. Watch the last big pocket, it stays wet for awhile. Good rock, except before the first bolt, which is a little crumbly.

Location 

On the prow of Weenie Buttress, left of Indian Drug Carpet. Starts on the left side of the lower roof system.

Protection 

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Lower or rap. May stick clip the first bolt, due to a little choss low on the route.