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 ADVANCED
Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Magic Wand 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rossiter, et al.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 853
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jun 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Magic Wand.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Right of Christal Ball is a wide crack - climb the rounded arete to the right of this.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Magic Wand Slideshow Add Photo
Magic Wand.  A good, well-bolted moderate sport le...
BETA PHOTO: Magic Wand. A good, well-bolted moderate sport le...
Wizard Rock.  The four bolted sport routes are sho...
BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...
Close to midway.
Close to midway.

Comments on Magic Wand Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2003

A fun route. It can be identified by a small pine tree growing out of the rock about 50' up, just right of the climbing line.

One correction: there are 9 bolts on the route; not 6. The route description on Richard Rossiter's website (www.boulderclimbs.com) also has this error.
By shad O'Neel
Aug 10, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I felt this line went at about 5.6+ (felt easier than say, Calypso), and this is staying within 12 inches of the bolts to the left or right. I guess you could make it harder, but there is a fairly easy path of least resistance in line with the bolts. It is very well bolted, and would be a great, early lead for a beginning climber.
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun, but I could not find the 5.8 move on this one.
By Corinne McKay
Jul 15, 2010

Fun route, great views from the top and well bolted for the 5.8 leader.
By mrbiscoop
Sep 24, 2011

Another fun route.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 5, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a fun route, but I did not find a 5.8 move. I think it is a 5.7.