|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Herb and Eve Laeger, Nov. 1980|
|Submitted By:||Roger Linfield on Jun 28, 2006|
|Comments on Magic Touch, The||Add Comment|
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From: Newport Beach
Jun 19, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This is a great route. It's unusual for J Tree, but you won't know that until you get right close to it and see that it is a steep, lichen dappled ramp - like a mix of Taquitz & The Needles.
The crack itself is dusty, but you'll just be using it to jam your foot. The ramp itself has solid features.
The leader I followed was able to get pro in every 6'; all solid. The R rating is wrong.
A good, full 30M+, 5.9 lead. Careful off the deck.