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Missing Piece 
V (aka The Vulva), The 

Magic Mushroom 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: DLFA
Page Views: 844
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Aug 3, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Magic Mushroom is slightly right of the rope.

Description 

Three boulder problems separated by two resting horizontals. The following words describe this climb: "Bouldery", "Shouldery", "Body Tension", "Technical" and "Intricate".


Location 

This route is a tall face to the right of "Missing Piece".


Protection 

TR or good gear in the horizontals



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 14, 2013
By Tradoholic
Aug 3, 2009

Who has climbed this thing? It is HARD!

FYI, watch out for the tree, it will stab you in the back, literally.

By Alex A
Nov 5, 2009

FYI, The DLFA did not do the 1st ascent, was done by Alex Andrews and Pete Cleveland,

By richard bechler
Nov 6, 2009

I did this route before you where even coming to the lake with Dave Salsbury.But if it keeps you in CO you can claim the first ascent of this massive 30 foot route.I think one of the new breed of DL climbers who are not afraid to lead hard routes should lead it or think of it as a boulder problem.

By Alex A
Nov 25, 2009

If you did it that long ago why was it not in the Extremist guide or the Extremist guide 2, I did it a longtime ago, and named it, think it's BS you did it, and did not blow your horn, by putting it in the guide, and it was not in your notes for the new routes for the new guide book, better to be in CO, and doing new routes to me and 1st ascents vs doing the same climbs over and over,

By richard bechler
Nov 28, 2009

Say it dont spray it.If it is better for you in CO why do you keep spraying about this stupid little route.Was it hard to find a rope long enough to toprope in CO?Like I said in my last post you can have the first ascent just stay out of my life forever.

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 29, 2009

yo punters chill out.
Alex, I have no reason to doubt Rich's claim of the FA.I well remember when Duke o puke Sloshbury told me of their fa of this line and it was long before you started hanging with Pete. Saying DL climbers are doing the same old routes is an insult to them.
I do beleive the climbers at dl are finding new routes and new ways to climb some of the old ones...i.e the leading of some of the harder climbs that we were to weak and scared to pull off.
peace and fuk-nes steve s.

By Tradoholic
Nov 30, 2009

The FA of "DLFA" stands. Although, it hasn't really been climbed until someone leads it anyway.

By the way, thanks for inspiration old schoolers. Next season will be another send-a-thon I think!

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 30, 2009

Nick, I'm psyched to see some of these harder climbs finally get done .You guys are pulling down. Its good to hear that we provide some "sort" of inspiration and also your efforts inspire my climbing too. Also nice job on Acid Rock,it proves Jason is not a freak....or does it. If ya make it Eldo to look me up. Pull Down Cut loose Throw up.
peace steve s.

By richard bechler
Dec 2, 2009

Steve,I salute your jakness you are a true unsung hero of Devils Lake and beyond.This has been a wierd week for me.After spending the summer and fall hospitalized or recovering I made it up to DL for a short hike around the lake.The first thing that caught my I was the old tree on the south shore that you always parked your orange Fiat under.After my hike I went and visited with Pete C. the first time in many years. Then a few days later Billy Russell called and we talked of the old days.I agree it is great to see these young guys repeating our routes in much better stlye and knocking off new test pieces.My only hope is that when they are busy in the grips of Extremism we can steal there girlfriends and sisters and hightail it to Mexico!

By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Dec 12, 2009

CLUB SALUTE !!!!! enough said

By Tradoholic
Aug 26, 2010

I should add that this route starts "3-4ft left of the cracks on the right" per the guidebook. I think the idea is to go straight up from there but after the horizontal it seems to be impossible!

By Tradoholic
Aug 7, 2013

VINCE EVANS LED THIS THING! THIS MEANS THAT ANY DIRTY OL' SMELLY HIPPY CAN DO IT. SACK UP GENTLEMEN!

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 8, 2013

Led?!! Wow!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 14, 2013

Rhoads, he did!