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Magic Mountain

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Advanced Placement T 
Birthday Party T 
Bottle Bill T 
Brain Drain T 
Bro's Before Holes T 
Cartwright Corner T 
Chocolate Cornhole T 
Chocolate flakes T 
Community Pillar T 
Dark and Long T 
Edge of the Sun T 
Five and Dime T 
Five Pack T 
Honeycomb Chimney T 
Magic Triangle T 
Masquerade T 
Saucerful of Secrets T 
Small Purchase T 
Texas Longneck T 

Magic Mountain  

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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 8, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The main formations of Magic Mountain

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


Magic Mountain is to the left of Mescalito. The crags there are on the south (left) side of the creek and face to the north. The usually offer shade and cooler climbing than than the nearby sunny cliffs. The three main formations (from east to west as you enter the canyon) are the Community Pillar, the Magic Triangle, and the Bottle. Behind (to the south of) the main formations is the Crabby Appleton approach gully, which is often used as a descent route from the tall climbs.

Getting There 

Take the normal Pine Creek Canyon trail and cross to the south side near the point where the streambed divides into the north and south forks. For the approach to the Magic Triangle and the Bottle, you will need to go a few hundred yards up the south fork.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Mountain:
Magic Triangle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 7 pitches, 600'   
Honeycomb Chimney   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   
Community Pillar   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 8 pitches, 700'   
Small Purchase   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Five and Dime   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Birthday Party   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 6 pitches, 750'   
Five Pack   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Edge of the Sun   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Chocolate flakes   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Saucerful of Secrets   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Magic Mountain

Featured Route For Magic Mountain
Fran places a piece just before firing up a crux s...

Small Purchase 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Mountain
This neat little route is one of the few Joe Herbst routes you'll find that can be classified as a finger crack. It can be found on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon (the shady side!), about 100 yards to the right of Community Pillar and about 100' left of the start of Magic Triangle.The route ascends a right facing dihedral that steadily gets steeper as it gets higher. Just left of the route is the bolted arete of Five and Dime.Start climbing at the base of the corner, under some ledges. Work...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Magic Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Magic mountain under a golden sunset on Sept 17th,...
Magic mountain under a golden sunset on Sept 17th,...

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By Cunning Linguist
Nov 2, 2011
Descent beta for routes in vicinity of Community Pillar: one 70 works perfectly on the raps, the first tree you see with slings at head height is an easy no-hands walkdown, head towards the Magic Triangle, don't bother with the rappel. The next tree is at the top of the Triangle gully proper, and is pretty short-50' or so off of small trees linked with a lot of cord and extended pretty far towards the lip. There's an interesting looking hole in the ledge not far down this rap-don't use this unless you brought 2 ropes. With a single, touch down beside the hole and walk climber's right to a slung boulder/nut anchor. A full rope rap puts you 25' above another tree, a solid scrub oak. I replaced the bleached slings on this one with a new dyneema. Another full length single rap leads to scrambling down the easternmost side of the gully to the final rap tree. On this rap, even with a 70, you'll come up 8 feet short. Aim slightly right to an easy varnished corner that is fine to downclimb at 5.3 or so. This lands you 20' from the base of Small Purchase.

There are 2 other descents detailed in Larry's Red Rock Odyssey: the (2 ropes required) Edge of the Sun rap route, which places you pretty far from your packs and involves a bit of hiking to return to the route base. The last is down the Crabby Appleton gully, which I would only choose as a last resort, if my rope was destroyed. The gully itself is an interesting hike, but trying to get down the thing quickly and safely without having been up the thing beforehand would involve leaving gear and possibly some "creative" rappels. Rapping off slings buried under small cairns HAS happened to people up there, don't be that guy.
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