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Magic Mountain is to the left of Mescalito. The crags there are on the south (left) side of the creek and face to the north. The usually offer shade and cooler climbing than than the nearby sunny cliffs. The three main formations (from east to west as you enter the canyon) are the Community Pillar, the Magic Triangle, and the Bottle. Behind (to the south of) the main formations is the Crabby Appleton approach gully, which is often used as a descent route from the tall climbs.
Take the normal Pine Creek Canyon trail and cross to the south side near the point where the streambed divides into the north and south forks. For the approach to the Magic Triangle and the Bottle, you will need to go a few hundred yards up the south fork.
19 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Mountain:
Magic Triangle 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Honeycomb Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
Community Pillar 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 8 pitches, 700'
Small Purchase 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Five and Dime 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Birthday Party 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad, 6 pitches, 750'
Five Pack 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Edge of the Sun 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Chocolate flakes 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Saucerful of Secrets 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Magic Mountain
Small Purchase 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Mountain
This neat little route is one of the few Joe Herbst routes you'll find that can be classified as a finger crack. It can be found on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon (the shady side!), about 100 yards to the right of Community Pillar and about 100' left of the start of Magic Triangle.The route ascends a right facing dihedral that steadily gets steeper as it gets higher. Just left of the route is the bolted arete of Five and Dime.Start climbing at the base of the corner, under some ledges. Work...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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