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Magic Mountain is to the left of Mescalito. The crags there are on the south (left) side of the creek and face to the north. The usually offer shade and cooler climbing than than the nearby sunny cliffs. The three main formations (from east to west as you enter the canyon) are the Community Pillar, the Magic Triangle, and the Bottle. Behind (to the south of) the main formations is the Crabby Appleton approach gully, which is often used as a descent route from the tall climbs.
Take the normal Pine Creek Canyon trail and cross to the south side near the point where the streambed divides into the north and south forks. For the approach to the Magic Triangle and the Bottle, you will need to go a few hundred yards up the south fork.
19 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Magic Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Mountain:
Magic Triangle 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Honeycomb Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 8 pitches, 800'
Community Pillar 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 8 pitches, 700'
Small Purchase 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Five and Dime 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Birthday Party 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, 6 pitches, 750'
Five Pack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Edge of the Sun 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Chocolate flakes 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Saucerful of Secrets 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Magic Mountain
Community Pillar 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NV : Red Rock : ... : Magic Mountain
This is a beautiful line directly up the middle of the Community Pillar formation. There are many opportunities for variations, and you could climb the route several times and have widely differing experiences. The choices aren't always obvious, so some explanation is in order.The start: The "normal" start is in enclosed chimney and goes behind the right side of a huge (cabin-sized) chockstone. This is very tight and scary for a big guy, but the slender and flexible seem to scamper right up. T...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
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