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Magic Mirror 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Season: In shade from late morning in fall
Page Views: 501
Submitted By: Alex Rogers on Oct 4, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Kindergarten Cop goes up the black slabby face in ...

Description 

Starts in the obvious big left facing corner just to the right of Kindergarten Kop. Start up the easy, right-leaning ramp, then gaze in trepidation up the steepening corner above. Its easier than it looks, but the crux (an awkward jamming move without much for the feet) felt a bit tougher than 5.5.

Location 

Descend via 2-rope rap down the line of Kindergarten Cop (shared anchor).

Protection 

It is a long climb, and protects well, so the beginner leader can take a huge rack and sew it up - the big crack in the corner swallows up gear to #4 cams. As of Sep 2011, the bolts at the anchor are 3 iffy bolts with rusting cold shuts (spinners all), and could do with replacement.


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By Cultivating Mass
Apr 24, 2012

Can rap with 1 FULL 70M rope, *no less*. If rapping with a 70, bear left over Kindergarden Cop and land on top of boulder pile just beneath K.C.'s starting roof. Do not attempt to lower with less than an 80M rope or rap with 2 ropes (preferred). Anchor has been replaced, it's on the left about 10-15 feet below the top of the crack in the tan rock.
By kendallt
From: Medford NJ
Mar 13, 2014

Climbed this with a 60m rope. Belayed second to the top and lowered them, then rapped to the high ledge at the start and downclimbed.