Type: Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson (3/97)
Page Views: 2,537 total · 15/month
Shared By: A. Roberts on Feb 2, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: DO NOT DISTURB ARTIFACTS,LEAVE NO TRACE DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1. Begin with a short approach pitch up a loose right facing corner to a double bolt belay. (5.7 30')
P2. Climb up the wide corner, lieback where it gets too wide (10+ at least), or yard on an old #5 camalot, passing two bolts to a natural belay at a stance. (100')
P3. Continue up the corner passing a bolt (5.9) and pass a roof to the right (5.8) end in a cave that goes all the way through the pillar. Cool belay with views out both sides. (50')(pitches 3 & 4 can be combined)
P4. Head out of the cave continuing up the right side, angling up and left to a double bolt belay.(5.8, 35') Then scramble 25' to the summit.

Location Suggest change

Magic Man climbs the right side of the pillar. To get off, down climb back to the top anchors (25') and rap the route using two ropes.

Protection Suggest change

Double set of Camalots up to #5, with extra #3's, and #4's. I'm sure a larger cam would come in handy also, I just didn't own one at the time. Set of nuts, 1 set of small metolious or aliens.

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