|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 240', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mike Baker, Leslie Henderson (3/97)|
|Submitted By:||A. Roberts on Feb 2, 2010|
|Comments on Magic Man||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Cañon City, CO
Feb 8, 2011
|Although the cave belay is cool, we combined pitches 3 and 4. Use some long runners and you won't feel the drag! We also added a third bolt to the last belay/rap station in 2009.|
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 23, 2014
While this climb is on a cool feature in a great setting, I thought that only the crux pitch was high quality, with the others being on primarily crunchy rock or moving around blocky terrain and pretty forgettable. That said, the crux pitch was beautiful and burly! I wouldn't hesitate to call it a sandbag, and I rather enjoy wide cracks. The bulk of the first 1/2 hovers between baggy #3 and #4 BD; despite my best efforts to squeeze up the layback part, I had to commit to the layback, but the edge was good as were the bolts (oh, and this is way too wide for the #6 so aiding or intermediate pro isn't an option). Triple #3-#4 BD, 2 #5 BD, and 1 #6 friend below the first bolt worked great.
Thanks Scott for the new bolt up top, we replaced the webbing. One double-rope rap put us on the ground with a clean rope pull (we had 70s, but looked like 60s would work fine).