Magic Helmet 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Chris Smith |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | all |
| Submitted By: | SmithBro on Feb 28, 2011 |
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I ended up on this when I thought I was on Charity...
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Description Up the slab, step right, then up and left to the arete at the 4th bolt. Crux action crossing this, and up to the top. The name is a Bugs Bunny reference, And what you would have needed, if on the climb during the big rockfall.
Location At the toe of the buttress, before turning up to Iron Man wall. 50 feet left of Charity Case.
Protection 5 bolts anchor
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Mar 1, 2011
| I just noticed this route the other day. Before the rock fall, I can't seem to remember ever looking at the face, but now with all the trees gone, it looks really prominent. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 23, 2011 rating: 5.10b
| not a bad little climb... the interesting climbing doesnt last too long but its worth doing... |
By S. Neoh Jun 4, 2011
| Got on this today and took it too casually. Tricky! The last 15 feet or so packs quite a punch for such a short route. I found it quite hard to get established to clip the last eye-bolt. Worth at least one run. Probably 10c (more or less). |
By twellman Aug 14, 2011 rating: 5.10b
| Fun and tricky finish. Not too bad once you figure out where the holds are and how to use them. I found it easier to clip the last bolt from holds just above it. Also, if you have someone following, it might be good to unclip the second and third bolts, since the rightward position of the second bolt would cause a swing into the tree on the right if one were to fall on the initial slab. |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Aug 27, 2011
| My friend and I climbed this today. He had to back down and I had to hangdog this a bit to figure out the sequence. Took some falls before the fourth bolts, it was very clean. My friend broke a good sized foothold a bit left off route, almost beaned me on the way down. |
By chris21 Jul 22, 2012 rating: 5.10c/d
| This seemed really hard for a 10a. Maybe I missed something but, I think this is actually harder than The Big Angler over on kennel wall which is 11a. |
By Matt Wilson From: Bethel, Vermont, USA Apr 15, 2013
| I reclimbed this route this past weekend. Took a few hangs to finally figure out the beta. My friend took a fall coming out of the crux and hit his ankle pretty good on the small ledge to the right of the 3rd bolt. Be careful. |
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