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Magic Helmet 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 1,075
Submitted By: SmithBro on Feb 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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I ended up on this when I thought I was on Charity...


Up the slab, step right, then up and left to the arete at the 4th bolt. Crux action crossing this, and up to the top. The name is a Bugs Bunny reference, And what you would have needed, if on the climb during the big rockfall.


At the toe of the buttress, before turning up to Iron Man wall. 50 feet left of Charity Case.


5 bolts anchor

Photos of Magic Helmet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: nicole wearing her magic (invisible) helmet
nicole wearing her magic (invisible) helmet
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber pulling up to the the tricky crux sequence...
Climber pulling up to the the tricky crux sequence...

Comments on Magic Helmet Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Mar 1, 2011

I just noticed this route the other day. Before the rock fall, I can't seem to remember ever looking at the face, but now with all the trees gone, it looks really prominent.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

not a bad little climb... the interesting climbing doesnt last too long but its worth doing...
By S. Neoh
Jun 4, 2011

Got on this today and took it too casually. Tricky! The last 15 feet or so packs quite a punch for such a short route. I found it quite hard to get established to clip the last eye-bolt. Worth at least one run. Probably 10c (more or less).
By twellman
Aug 14, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun and tricky finish. Not too bad once you figure out where the holds are and how to use them. I found it easier to clip the last bolt from holds just above it.

Also, if you have someone following, it might be good to unclip the second and third bolts, since the rightward position of the second bolt would cause a swing into the tree on the right if one were to fall on the initial slab.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Aug 27, 2011

My friend and I climbed this today. He had to back down and I had to hangdog this a bit to figure out the sequence. Took some falls before the fourth bolts, it was very clean. My friend broke a good sized foothold a bit left off route, almost beaned me on the way down.
By chris21
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This seemed really hard for a 10a. Maybe I missed something but, I think this is actually harder than The Big Angler over on kennel wall which is "11a".
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Apr 15, 2013

I reclimbed this route this past weekend. Took a few hangs to finally figure out the beta. My friend took a fall coming out of the crux and hit his ankle pretty good on the small ledge to the right of the 3rd bolt. Be careful.
By J Meagher
May 10, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

After walking past it dozens of times and always wondering about it I finally got on it today, not a bad little route. The real climbing doesn't really start until the upper half of the route, but the movement's actually pretty cool, IMO its just too short to get more than 2 stars. I agree with S. Neoh, harder than 10a
By Eli Buzzell
Sep 12, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It's easy to get drawn out too far left which makes for a tough onsite at the grade, however I think 10a is more than reasonable once you know the right holds.

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