The second star is for turning the roof which is pretty neat. The rest of the climb is pretty mellow. Crux is probably the reach to a hole above the lip of the roof. The reach is a bit farther than you would like. But you can clip the bolt from below the roof.
right up the middle of the wall through the center of the roof.
5 bolts plus chains
BETA PHOTO: Me bolting and cleaning Magic Helmet.
Why is the route called Magic Helmet? A hold broke...
Trying to stay glued to the roof
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Mar 27, 2008
The roof is a lot of fun, although I left a bit of skin on a sharp hold.
|By Canyon Copa|
May 30, 2012
Fun warm up for the 10c to the right. Pretty straightforward climbing up over the roof. The holds are there, so don't be tempted to use the left wall.