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Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
Routes Sorted
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Big Bolts 
Blown Out 
Chummin' for Splatter 
Clean Sweep 
Crack, The 
From the Ashes 
I Love L.A. 
Magic Feather 
Moon Doggies 
Ruthless Poodles 
Sob Story 
Teetering 

Magic Feather 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: TR: Reese Martin? Lead: M. Fienup (2006)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 602
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Route topo for "Magic Feather" (5.10a) at Foothill...

Description 

This route was top-roped at 5.10, and Reese Martin apparently had plans to bolt it. In the style of Tim Coates (on Clean Sweep) and Martin (on From the Ashes & Roothless Poodles), this route was first led on roped-solo.

The route starts with 5.9 climbing on good edges past the first bolt. The crux (5.10a) is passing the second bolt on subtle features.

After gaining an obvious ledge, climb the left side of the blunt arete to the top (past two more protection bolts).


Protection 

Four lead bolts (three 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts and a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt). To really sew this up, you'll want a single 1/2" or 1" cam.

Shares the top anchor with From the Ashes.



Photos of Magic Feather Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan Southwick encounters the slabby crux just above the second bolt of Magic Feather.
Ryan Southwick encounters the slabby crux just abo...
Ryan Southwick climbs the finishing arete on "Magic Feather" (5.10a) at Foothill Ridge, in Ojai.
Ryan Southwick climbs the finishing arete on "Magi...
Nicole pulls the opening moves of Magic Feather, at the Foot in Ojai.
Nicole pulls the opening moves of Magic Feather, a...
Comments on Magic Feather Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
May 24, 2010

This route should not exist. Someone please chop the bolts.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 24, 2010

"The blunt arete on its (Ashes') right was toproped at 5.10 and may have 4 bolts by the time you read this."

-Edwards, Steve. Rock Climbing Santa Barbara and Ventura. Canada: Falcon Publishing, Inc., 2000.

By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jul 23, 2012

Free solo'ed this again yesterday. What a good one for a solo. Still not sure why on Earth it is bolted....

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 29, 2012

"What a good one..."

Glad you love the climbing, Alexander.

By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Apr 10, 2013

All comments aside, I really like the name of this route.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 12, 2013

You just have to believe...
You just have to believe...