Magic Feather 5.10a/b
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | TR: Reese Martin? Lead: M. Fienup (2006) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 18, 2006 |
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Ryan Southwick encounters the slabby crux just abo...
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Description This route was top-roped at 5.10, and Reese Martin apparently had plans to bolt it. In the style of Tim Coates (on Clean Sweep) and Martin (on From the Ashes & Roothless Poodles), this route was first led on roped-solo.
The route starts with 5.9 climbing on good edges past the first bolt. The crux (5.10a) is passing the second bolt on subtle features.
After gaining an obvious ledge, climb the left side of the blunt arete to the top (past two more protection bolts).
Protection Four lead bolts (three 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolts and a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt). To really sew this up, you'll want a single 1/2" or 1" cam.
Shares the top anchor with From the Ashes.
Ryan Southwick climbs the finishing arete on "Magi...
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BETA PHOTO: Route topo for "Magic Feather" (5.10a) at Foothill...
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Nicole pulls the opening moves of Magic Feather, a...
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| Comments on Magic Feather |
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By Alexander B.
From: Ojai CA
May 24, 2010
| This route should not exist. Someone please chop the bolts. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 24, 2010
| "The blunt arete on its (Ashes') right was toproped at 5.10 and may have 4 bolts by the time you read this."
-Edwards, Steve. Rock Climbing Santa Barbara and Ventura. Canada: Falcon Publishing, Inc., 2000. |
By Alexander B.
From: Ojai CA
Jul 23, 2012
| Free solo'ed this again yesterday. What a good one for a solo. Still not sure why on Earth it is bolted.... |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Dec 29, 2012
| "What a good one..."
Glad you love the climbing, Alexander. |
By Alexander B.
From: Ojai CA
Apr 10, 2013
| All comments aside, I really like the name of this route. |
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