Magic Carpet Ride  5.11d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Alan Bartlett, John Aughinbaugh, Jack Roberts 1998 Fixed Hardware:  7 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details] Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on May 28, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Kevin Murphy on the upper half.

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

Magic Carpet Ride is a little-climbed sport route just left of the first pitch of Vertigo. I didn't even know it existed until a few months ago when I first saw the bolts. The climbing is sustained at the 5.10 level with a very hard crux move over a bulge. It's a bit green, but the rock is solid, and the moves are varied.

Start up the 5.6 variation left of the usual start to Vertigo. Clip a bolt and make a difficult traverse left on the wall with bad hands. The crux is at the 2nd bolt. I was unable to make this move (following the pitch), although I could reach a good but painful crimp that in stronger hands might be the key. An easier variation involves stepping down, moving left, reaching easily over the bulge, and then stepping over the bulge with difficulty using small crimps. That way might be 11a, and would be leadable using the existing crux bolt, but with a small swing potential.

Above the crux, climb easily to a ceiling and clip a bolt over the lip. This bolt is to protect the second. If you're climbing with a single rope, you'll want at least a draw plus a long sling. Traverse right to a bit of a prow and another bolt, pull over the ceiling, and clip. You can reach down and unclip the bolt below to reduce rope drag. Sustained 5.10 face climbing leads past several more bolts to easier ground and a slab. The second pitch of Vertigo converges to this same point. Get some gear to protect your second and then either continue to the top of Vertigo P2 if you have 2 ropes or traverse straight left to the Vertigo rap anchors.

Protection 

9 bolts plus the anchors. 2 long slings or double ropes. Double ropes to rappel from the top of P2 of Vertigo, or one rope to rappel from the middle Vertigo rappel anchor to the left. Bring a 0.75 Camalot to protect the second above the last bolt, and a few more pieces if you traverse to the anchors on the left. The traverse is not real hard, but a fall directly onto the anchors would be pretty serious.

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Kevin Murphy preparing to grapple with the crux.

Kevin Murphy unclipping the fourth bolt which redu...