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Magic Beans 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Apr 16, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: John hops up the Magic Beans.

Description 

Crux is the mantel/pull onto the first knob. Pretty cool and then some more nice moves to the ledge.


Location 

Starts at the base of the chimney downhill and right of Dinkum Crack. Mantel/pull out onto the knobs on the face up and right. hence straight up to a ledge, then up to the top of the cliff. Avoid any chimney movement. Two bolts are at the top for a top rope.


Protection 

top rope, but frequently free soloed.



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By stuart.h
From: Redwood City
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

This route gets more interesting if you do the knobs without the left edge, especially the pull right onto the knobs - hard 10s