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Maggie's Farm 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,307
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Chris Lane on Maggie's Farm

Description 

The rightmost of 3 cracks. An easy start leads to a short, fun corner.

Protection 

Light rack.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 29, 2013
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 19, 2006

The name comes from the 1965 Bob Dylan song, later redone by Rage Against The Machine on their 2000 release, Renegades.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Vogel and others list this as the left crack, not the right. I thought the crux was a bit sketchy (which is a good thing) and a little harder than the listed rating.
By Randy
Apr 19, 2007

Actually, the guide (Joshua Tree West) lists Maggie's Farm as the right route.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Feb 5, 2009

I just climbed this route Feb. 1st or so. The guide book listed a Class 2 downclimb descending a gully to the climbers right. When I got to the top and went for the downclimb, it had a large 9ft tall boulder blocking the downclimb chute. I assume it fell down from the top recently. It can be climbed by stemming the chute walls and working it like a chimney down the other side but the drop off on the other side of the new boulder is a good 12ft down. So have those chimney skills dialed or your looking at a broken leg. I left a sling girthed around a large rock for a rappel but I'm sure it's part of someones rack by now.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Mar 2, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The crux section of the route felt extremely short - almost like a boulder problem being done after a quick easy approach.

I climbed this route on March 1st, and I don't recall doing any 12' stemming downclimbing to descend off the route (but my memory has been known to fail me with details like this). From the top of this climb, the descent route is just to climber's right (if at all) and will take you down a short corridor onto the other side of this wall.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This climb isn't terribly good imo. Most of it is too easy to place gear and the crux section isn't terribly interesting. Surprised it made it into the 'Trad Guide'. I think I put two cams in maybe...
By Brandontyrrell
Apr 8, 2010

great climb
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I liked this climb and stemmed the upper section the whole way up until I could exit right.
By maggie-girl
Mar 6, 2012

Fun, sunny, moderate climb. Consistent crack, so if you want the gear, you can get it! Just long enough to get your attention, then its over.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

So is this the right or the left crack?

I'm talking about the LEFT crack in this comment.
Good route, usually sunny and sort funky up high at the slightly flaring crux fingers/hand section. Take some cams and med stoppers up to about 1.5" for the crack. The summit anchors will take almost anything, but stuff in the 2" range seem to work best. Probably belay on top unless you are all fancy and do an extended anchor type thing to set up a slingshot.

To walk off go up and over the back of the formation and scramble down to climbers left. Not hard, not sketch, and will pop you out down near the base of the route.
By kenr
Jan 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For the Right crack:
Not for the beginning Crack leader.
My partner and I both thought the crux was at least as hard as any move on Sail Away (which we did three days before).

Agree that trying more stemming seemed to help. But didn't seem like much fun.

The descent is non-difficult class 3. Which also applies to scrambling up to the top to set up a Top-Rope for the route (in case the above comments scared anyone off from leading it). We found it straightforward to set up for Top-Roping off the same anchor both this route and the other one (Rainy Day Women).