Maggialore 6b+  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 11 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  H Müller Submitted By:  Colin Winter on Jul 25, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Exit pitch on Maggialore, 6b+

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Description 

Another great, long sport route ascending the entirety of the wall. All pitches of the route range between 5c and 6b+, with the majority around 6a/6a+.

The first three pitches, up the lower slab, are shared with Lucertola. The 6b+ intro pitch is a one sequence wonder, pulling through a large bulge and onto a fairly blank slab... a tough one to decipher and execute without much of any warmup. If this doesn't appeal, it is possible to skip the lower section entirely by scrambling around it on the left, or do a different route up the slab just to the right, and switch into Maggialore at the transition between lower slab and headwall.

The first two pitches of the headwall are also shared with Lucertola. Where Lucertola breaks hard left, Maggialora continues +/- directly up the headwall. Terrain here is steep but with a decent enough array of features. Save a bit of strength for the exit pitch, which is short but very athletic.

Location 

Facing the wall, Maggialore takes off at the far left of the lower slab, underneath a prominent bulge.

Descent is by abseil down the headwall, and by foot from the base of the headwall (above the slab).

Protection 

Bolted (impeccably)

Photos of Maggialore 6b+ Slideshow

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Great stone in the headwall of Maggialore