Magellanic Cloud 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, 1980s |
| Submitted By: | Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Rich climbing Magellanic Cloud taken from...
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Description Start up the face just left of the Shady Ladies corner. Climb the left-facing, left-trending corner to a roof. Move right across face, then climb beautiful left-facing corners up to communal belay ledge. Wonderful climbing on great rock.
Protection Gear to #3 Camalot
Past the crux traverse on Magellanic Cloud and fac...
| BETA PHOTO: Side view of Magellanic Cloud
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| Comments on Magellanic Cloud |
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By Darshan Ahluwalia From: Petaluma, CA Feb 12, 2007
| I thought the traverse right across the face towards the roof was pretty scary. Definitely had a few 5.9 moves. You wouldn't want to fall at the crux, as doing so would land you into a potentially painful slab corner. |
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.8
| So so climb with some rope drag problems. Be sure to sling the crux nut or pay the price later. The moves are pretty easy for 5.9, with good holds after a huge rest. Anchor is a nice wad of slings along with a bolt. A few other routes share this same anchor, so be aware of how you clip it up if there is a crowd. |
By Matt McMurray From: Castle Rock, CO Apr 23, 2007 rating: 5.9 PG13
| I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun... |
By Gaar From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab Apr 10, 2008
| you can protect the traverse by getting a solid #4 stopper ABOVE the bottom finger lock directly around the corner...but placing it is a little difficult. just come back down and rest after placing it |
By Nelson Day From: Victorville, CA Dec 29, 2010 rating: 5.9+
| This route has in my opinion a totally sketchy anchor at the top. There is one bolt which is of a style I have not seen before, and the other anchor point is a sling around a column that is now entirely cracked through at the top. I built my own anchor and only used the existing anchor to rap off of. I recommend bringing enough gear on this route to build your own top rope anchor. |
By Edward Pyune From: Las Vegas, NV Nov 4, 2012 rating: 5.9
| A #4 camalot (or maybe something a little bigger) with an extender is great for protecting the roof for the traverse, although it requires you to downclimb just a little afterwards. Once I got the piece in with a double length sling, felt totally comfortable going for the traverse, which was a lot easier than I initially thought it was gonna be. |
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