|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (March 2008)|
|Submitted By:||Matthew Fienup on Mar 28, 2008|
|Comments on Magali's Arete||Add Comment|
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From: Sacramento, CA
May 17, 2010
|Easily linked with Seven Steps with minimal rope drag.|
By John Knight
Jan 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A short, fun route. Gave it 2 stars. We choose to climb "Magali's" instead of the left route ("Rational Expectations") since it looked a bit more challenging and more interesting. Earlier the same day I previously led PIH (5.9) and thought "Magali's" would be a walk in the park. However, I found "Magali's" to be more mentally engaging than PIH. I also think the rating is more like 5.8 instead of 5.7. Maybe some holds broke off? Hard to know. Sandstone evolves a bit with use. Be careful! There is a loose plate on the left side of the arete (about 2/3 of the way up) that flexes with even a gentle pull. I didn't feel like I need the 2" piece recommended in the description but you can certainly supplement with gear if you feel you need it.
Note - There's a lot of loose blocks in and near the climb. Some are small and some are HUGE. Be super careful while climbing and rapping the route.