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 ADVANCED
Central Gully
Select Route:
Blue In Green S 
Footprints S 
Helicopter Effect T 
Magali's Arete S 
Objectivist Tendencies T 
Rational Expectations S 
Seven Steps to Heaven S 
Snickerdoodle S 
Spontaneous Order S 
Straight, No Chaser T 
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 

Magali's Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (March 2008)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 983
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The initial slab to get onto Magali's Arete.

Description 

Climbs the arete on the right side of the block that is also home to Rational Expectations. This route is longer and significantly more difficult than Rational Expectations.

Location 

Approach and descend the same as for Rational Expectations.

Blue In Green now provides convenient access to the base of this route.

Protection 

5 bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), 2 bolt anchor with chains. 2" piece recommended.


Photos of Magali's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Kelly "pink pointing" "Magali's&quo...
Kelly "pink pointing" "Magali's&quo...
Romain Wacziarg climbs Magali's Arete during the r...
Romain Wacziarg climbs Magali's Arete during the r...
Kelly enjoying the pitch.
Kelly enjoying the pitch.
On Magali's Arete and cruising.
On Magali's Arete and cruising.

Comments on Magali's Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 17, 2010

Easily linked with Seven Steps with minimal rope drag.
By John Knight
Jan 19, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A short, fun route. Gave it 2 stars. We choose to climb "Magali's" instead of the left route ("Rational Expectations") since it looked a bit more challenging and more interesting. Earlier the same day I previously led PIH (5.9) and thought "Magali's" would be a walk in the park. However, I found "Magali's" to be more mentally engaging than PIH. I also think the rating is more like 5.8 instead of 5.7. Maybe some holds broke off? Hard to know. Sandstone evolves a bit with use. Be careful! There is a loose plate on the left side of the arete (about 2/3 of the way up) that flexes with even a gentle pull. I didn't feel like I need the 2" piece recommended in the description but you can certainly supplement with gear if you feel you need it.

Note - There's a lot of loose blocks in and near the climb. Some are small and some are HUGE. Be super careful while climbing and rapping the route.