|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 140'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Julien Dery, 1987|
|Submitted By:||Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 29, 2012|
|Comments on Maestro||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: San Pedro, California
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
|For a "G" rated climb i took a pretty big fall....well i let go because i was afraid of committing and taking a huge fall. it was where you kind of high step and shift left into the small corner...where the micronut goes....the fall was on a bolt but i really feel like it was long enough to call this PG....also that little nut is pretty crucial, although it protects the easiest moves on the face. all my whining aside, maestro is everything i ever wanted out of a thin, technical, crimpy face climb. if your into tiny edges on slightly less than vertical rock is doesn't get much better. its ten move after ten move until you join up with Paralysis. its hard to say where the crux is but ill go with where i jumped off. hats off to the guy with the French Canadian sounding name that did the FA, bolted on lead, dang.|
By J. Nickel
Dec 1, 2014
|The route is PG for sure, and I thought it was harder than C-tips or Menace to Sobriety. Not a route that you want to climb in full sun, either. All that said, it's brilliant slab climbing.|
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 8, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|I'm in agreement with both of the above comments. This route isn't G by any stretch. I also think it is significantly harder than C-Tips and notably harder than Menace to Sobriety.|
By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
Jul 12, 2015
Finally got on this. It is good, and there is protection at the difficult sections when you need it. One or two RPs in the corner are nice. But in general the falls would be clean, so I think despite some spaced bolts it is a pretty safe route.
Granted it was a very hot and humid day, but all three of us who climbed it - experienced climbers living in places with stiff ratings (ADK's, Gunks, and Mt. Lemmon) all agreed that the grade of 5.10c was absolutely absurd!
I just cruised a bunch of 11's and had to pull on the draw on that last slab move at the top.
Maybe when it was put up it was 5.10, before it got polished and holds broke - perhaps?