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 ADVANCED
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch T,S 
Air Male T,S 
Arch Crack T,S 
Bloody Mary T 
Borderline T 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) T 
C-Tips S 
Casual Observer T,S 
Certified Raw T 
Chik'n Garbonzo T 
Cirrhosis T 
Cooney-Norton T 
Cosmopolitan Wall T 
Earthly Night S 
Fastest Gun, The T 
Firing Line T 
FM, The T 
Gamesmanship T 
Grapes of Wrath T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Green Onion T 
Group Therapy T 
Hang 'Em High T,S 
It Don't Come Easy T 
Junior Varsity T 
La Spirale T 
Ladder T 
Lost Chance aka The Natural  T 
Macho T,S 
Maestro T 
Mayflower T 
Menace To Sobriety S 
Morning Star T 
P.T. Pillar T 
Pandemonium T 
Paralysis T 
Phase III T 
Pilgrim's Progress T 
Pillar T 
Psalm 32 T,S 
Psychosis T 
Puppies on Edge T 
Ragtime T 
Raptor's Sream S 
Rapture, The T,S 
Salad Days S 
Scallion T 
Snake Slide T 
Snatch, The T 
Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
Southern Hospitality p1 T 
Static Cling T,S 
Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 

Maestro 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Julien Dery, 1987
Page Views: 672
Submitted By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Scramble to the top of the block. Climb up from the anchor past three bolts, move left into a shallow corner (RPs), then up past four bolts moving left at the top to finish on Paralysis.

    Primo balancey face climbing the whole way. Bolts are traditionally spaced.

    Location 

    Poke-O-Moonshine, Paralysis Amphitheater.

    Protection 

    7 bolts, small nuts and a few cams to 2" for the top.


    Comments on Maestro Add Comment
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    By Benjaminadk
    From: Lake George, NY
    Nov 29, 2014
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

    For a "G" rated climb i took a pretty big fall....well i let go because i was afraid of committing and taking a huge fall. it was where you kind of high step and shift left into the small corner...where the micronut goes....the fall was on a bolt but i really feel like it was long enough to call this PG....also that little nut is pretty crucial, although it protects the easiest moves on the face. all my whining aside, maestro is everything i ever wanted out of a thin, technical, crimpy face climb. if your into tiny edges on slightly less than vertical rock is doesn't get much better. its ten move after ten move until you join up with Paralysis. its hard to say where the crux is but ill go with where i jumped off. hats off to the guy with the French Canadian sounding name that did the FA, bolted on lead, dang.
    By J. Nickel
    Dec 1, 2014

    The route is PG for sure, and I thought it was harder than C-tips or Menace to Sobriety. Not a route that you want to climb in full sun, either. All that said, it's brilliant slab climbing.