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|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
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Scramble to the top of the block. Climb up from the anchor past three bolts, move left into a shallow corner (RPs), then up past four bolts moving left at the top to finish on Paralysis.
Primo balancey face climbing the whole way. Bolts are traditionally spaced.
Poke-O-Moonshine, Paralysis Amphitheater.
7 bolts, small nuts and a few cams to 2" for the top.
From: Lake George, NY
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
For a "G" rated climb i took a pretty big fall....well i let go because i was afraid of committing and taking a huge fall. it was where you kind of high step and shift left into the small corner...where the micronut goes....the fall was on a bolt but i really feel like it was long enough to call this PG....also that little nut is pretty crucial, although it protects the easiest moves on the face. all my whining aside, maestro is everything i ever wanted out of a thin, technical, crimpy face climb. if your into tiny edges on slightly less than vertical rock is doesn't get much better. its ten move after ten move until you join up with Paralysis. its hard to say where the crux is but ill go with where i jumped off. hats off to the guy with the French Canadian sounding name that did the FA, bolted on lead, dang.
By J. Nickel
Dec 1, 2014
The route is PG for sure, and I thought it was harder than C-tips or Menace to Sobriety. Not a route that you want to climb in full sun, either. All that said, it's brilliant slab climbing.