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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch T,S 
Air Male T,S 
Arch Crack T,S 
Bastard T 
Bloody Mary T 
Borderline T 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) T 
C-Tips S 
Casual Observer T,S 
Certified Raw T 
Chik'n Garbonzo T 
Cirrhosis T 
Cooney-Norton T 
Cosmopolitan Wall T 
Earthly Night S 
Fastest Gun, The T 
Firing Line T 
FM, The T 
Freedom Flight T 
Gamesmanship T 
Grapes of Wrath T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Green Onion T 
Group Therapy T 
Hang 'Em High T,S 
It Don't Come Easy T 
Junior Varsity T 
La Spirale T 
Ladder T 
Lost Chance aka The Natural  T 
Macho T,S 
Maestro T 
Mayflower T 
Menace To Sobriety S 
Morning Star T 
P.T. Pillar T 
Pandemonium T 
Paralysis T 
Phase III T 
Pilgrim's Progress T 
Pillar T 
Psalm 32 T,S 
Psychosis T 
Puppies on Edge T 
Ragtime T 
Raptor's Sream S 
Rapture, The T,S 
Salad Days S 
Scallion T 
Snake Slide T 
Snatch, The T 
Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
Southern Hospitality p1 T 
Static Cling T,S 
Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Julien Dery, 1987
Page Views: 954
Submitted By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Scramble to the top of the block. Climb up from the anchor past three bolts, move left into a shallow corner (RPs), then up past four bolts moving left at the top to finish on Paralysis.

    Primo balancey face climbing the whole way. Bolts are traditionally spaced.


    Poke-O-Moonshine, Paralysis Amphitheater.


    7 bolts, small nuts and a few cams to 2" for the top.

    Comments on Maestro Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Benjaminadk
    From: San Pedro, California
    Nov 29, 2014
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

    For a "G" rated climb i took a pretty big fall....well i let go because i was afraid of committing and taking a huge fall. it was where you kind of high step and shift left into the small corner...where the micronut goes....the fall was on a bolt but i really feel like it was long enough to call this PG....also that little nut is pretty crucial, although it protects the easiest moves on the face. all my whining aside, maestro is everything i ever wanted out of a thin, technical, crimpy face climb. if your into tiny edges on slightly less than vertical rock is doesn't get much better. its ten move after ten move until you join up with Paralysis. its hard to say where the crux is but ill go with where i jumped off. hats off to the guy with the French Canadian sounding name that did the FA, bolted on lead, dang.
    By J. Nickel
    Dec 1, 2014

    The route is PG for sure, and I thought it was harder than C-tips or Menace to Sobriety. Not a route that you want to climb in full sun, either. All that said, it's brilliant slab climbing.
    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    May 8, 2015
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I'm in agreement with both of the above comments. This route isn't G by any stretch. I also think it is significantly harder than C-Tips and notably harder than Menace to Sobriety.
    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Essex, NY
    Jul 12, 2015

    Finally got on this. It is good, and there is protection at the difficult sections when you need it. One or two RPs in the corner are nice. But in general the falls would be clean, so I think despite some spaced bolts it is a pretty safe route.

    Granted it was a very hot and humid day, but all three of us who climbed it - experienced climbers living in places with stiff ratings (ADK's, Gunks, and Mt. Lemmon) all agreed that the grade of 5.10c was absolutely absurd!

    I just cruised a bunch of 11's and had to pull on the draw on that last slab move at the top.

    Maybe when it was put up it was 5.10, before it got polished and holds broke - perhaps?
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