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Madness Among Us 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Andrew Perkins
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Andrew Perkins on Jul 5, 2010
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Description 

Sort of a one-move wonder, the crux is grabbing the razor crimp about 2/3rds of the way up. Someone tore off a large edge near the top practicing aid-climbing, but I redid it on toprope and it's still the same grade. Took me nearly 14 months to unlock it, IIRC first ascent was November 1996.


Location 

Bolted line right of Razor Blades and left of Steroids to Heaven.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 rap anchors at top, or you can toprope it.



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By Marty Bland
Jul 9, 2010

Andy, Mark Polinski did the actual Redpoint of the route a couple years ago. Called it "The Perkins Route" (You've been immortalized). Said it was 13c or b. Check his 8a.nu account and you can see his comments.

By Andrew Perkins
Aug 20, 2010

Wow, long time no hear, Marty. Hope things are well.

I might not have been clear in my original post. I redpointed the route in 96, then Quan tore off a non-essential hold toward the top. I toproped it again to check the section to make sure it didn't substantially change the difficulty (it didn't).

Off to 8a.nu, thanks for the update.