Madison Square Garden is probably the best route on Garden Wall. MSG clocks in at a burly 5.6 and sports 3 or 4 bolts depending on how you climb the route. Head straight up to the small "overhang" about 25' up then work your way under it to the right. Clip all the bolts you run across. You can also go straight up over the small overhang for a variation called Look Ma, No Hands (5.6/5.7). Once you set up an anchor, top rope your own variations. Some nice views, no crowds, and a great place for beginners and beginning leaders.
Three or four draws and slings to set up the anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Garden Wall is all about low angle slab climbing. ...
Aaron Formello floating on the sharp end
good friction in the fog
|By Floyd Hayes|
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I thought the crux was a tricky move above the second bolt, harder than what I expected for a 5.6, and just as hard as Look Ma No Hands.
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Batesville, AR
Feb 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Seems like the key hold for getting to the 2nd or 3rd bolt was wet (can't remember if it was the 2nd or 3rd bolt, it was the one above and left of the nice and juggy obvious upward-right slanting seam), and seemed like a tough move, so I skipped it and went right (easier, but runout). I wouldn't recommend this route to a beginning leader, but the climbing was fun. On a cold humid day after recent rains, the slab felt pretty slippery (even though dry), sufficient enough to scare a novice leader who doesn't like runout.