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Madiera Beach 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Orenczak & Lynn
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: J Marsella on Aug 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on a short, pocketed face, then climb through a series of shelves on solid, grippy rock. Surmount a bulge and finish at bolted anchors. It appears that one set of anchor bolts has been previously removed, but there's another set up there.

From Arlo N.: This climb goes up to a pair of bolts to the right of the Monkey and Engineer bolts. These are set up to rappel off of a 1 foot wide ledge which is the top of the flake. The flake is hollow sounding and upon inspection, it has a crack all along the bottom of the flake. It's possible to clip the anchors without touching the ledge, and to start the rappel from a ledge to the left while facing the rock face.

Location 

Upon reaching the top of the approach trail, step up and to the left to a wide shelf and walk about 20 feet. This should be the 3rd bolt-line from the step-up.

Protection 

About 8 hangers before a two-bolt anchor.


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By Arlo F Niederer
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 6, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This climb goes up to a pair of bolts to the right of the Monkey and Engineer bolts. These are set up to rappel off of a 1 foot wide ledge which is the top of the flake. The flake is hollow sounding and upon inspection, it has a crack all along the bottom of the flake. It's possible to clip the anchors without touching the ledge, and to start the rappel from a ledge to the left while facing the rock face.

There is more loose rock than it looks like on the face...be careful if anyone is down below.
By Steven W
Jun 12, 2016

I think this route used to have dedicated anchors, but it doesn't now. There are two threaded bolts sticking out of the rock with nothing on them. Fortunately, there are anchors for neighboring routes on both sides. A directional may be needed if setting up TR.

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