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Madiera Beach 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Orenczak & Lynn
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: John Marsella on Aug 26, 2011
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Description 

Start on a short, pocketed face, then climb through a series of shelves on solid, grippy rock. Surmount a bulge and finish at bolted anchors. It appears that one set of anchor bolts has been previously removed, but there's another set up there.

From Arlo N.: This climb goes up to a pair of bolts to the right of the Monkey and Engineer bolts. These are set up to rappel off of a 1 foot wide ledge which is the top of the flake. The flake is hollow sounding and upon inspection, it has a crack all along the bottom of the flake. It's possible to clip the anchors without touching the ledge, and to start the rappel from a ledge to the left while facing the rock face.


Location 

Upon reaching the top of the approach trail, step up and to the left to a wide shelf and walk about 20 feet. This should be the 3rd bolt-line from the step-up.


Protection 

About 8 hangers before a two-bolt anchor.



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By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 6, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

This climb goes up to a pair of bolts to the right of the Monkey and Engineer bolts. These are set up to rappel off of a 1 foot wide ledge which is the top of the flake. The flake is hollow sounding and upon inspection, it has a crack all along the bottom of the flake. It's possible to clip the anchors without touching the ledge, and to start the rappel from a ledge to the left while facing the rock face.

There is more loose rock than it looks like on the face...be careful if anyone is down below.